Oxiana and Laundry...

 

I managed to finish a book!  No, not one of the colouring in ones, an actual book. During 'Lock Down' I expected to read all the books in the pile, I failed.  Indeed, I hardly picked one up, at times there was no incentive to read, nothing tasted and I just could net get into any off them.  Eventually, having been forced by 'Waterstones' to buy to keep my voucher points I bought three.  Even more eventually I began to read.  

I bought this because it was a travel book from the past.  In fact it covers this man Robert Byron, no relation to the other one, on his trip across Persia and Afghanistan and Turkestan in his quest to investigate ancient Islamic architecture during the winter of 1933/34.  Quite why he would choose to visit a place with towering mountains during the winter months I fail to understand. It is to be expected at such seasons that roads will be blocked by snow or landslip so why try? However, when we reflect on his Eton Schooling we will begin to understand that acting like a normal individual was not his way.  

Byron had travelled widely before this book visiting the Soviet Union, India and elsewhere and he had published several books, some of which are still available.

The book is formed from the diary he kept at the time, and the diary form works well in travel books I think.  His usual way is to describe the day, the place where he stays, the food, those with him and then an in depth description of the architecture he finds.  This part I found a wee bit wearing as such descriptions in books do not make clear to the minds eye what is being described.  However, this website offers pictures of many of the sites visited, often with Byron's own photographs as well as a modern colour view.  This site in very helpful in understanding what he is viewing.  The tale then returns to his day, the food, the problems and so on.

Journeying in this region at any time is fraught with many dangers.  Politics, tribesmen, Muslims upset at a heretic in the mosque, are all testing, while food, shelter and breaking down on the road far from help are all trials to be faced.  Illness, when it strikes shows little mercy at a time and place when no NHS exisited.  

Hints of humour, mostly from his dealings with people appear, and a surprising wide variety of  people appear in this book and his determined personality mixed with that of his diplomatic friend Christopher, who occasionally accompanies him, often forces them through difficult situations. 

Being 'British' of class opens the door to the local leaders as they pass, some more friendly than others, this including the Russians who invite the travellers to enjoy a refreshing party which leads to a headache in the morning.  

The book offers a different world from what is found in this region today.

War, politics and individual stubborness have made this part of the world attractive to many and dangerous for most.  It is unlikely a similar journey could be made today.  The road from Tehran to Kabul may offer many intriguing sights for the modern traveler but I wonder would one return?

Robert Byron died in 1941 when the ship in which he travelled was torpedoed off Cape Wrath and his body was not recovered. 

This is a good book, I recommend it.

Late in the evening, well about 5:30 pm the van arrived.  By 6 pm they were on their way. The reviews spoke well of the delivery men and John Lewis's organisations efficiency.  I now agree.  Called by a robotic voice twice to inform me of when they would deliver and by the driver himself when 20 minutes away was impressive.  It was not so efficient in the 80's before an online service and an robotic voice could call.  

A very large young man, I had to look up to him, came in, looked around, said "It's no bother," and began to remove the old machine.  His mate joined him and said, "No bother," and soon they had the old machine out, the new one in, and working!  Paying for them to fit it was a great idea!  

Well-organised, efficient, experienced, and capable, they were indeed friendly and helpful and careful not to leave any mess.  Within 30 minutes they had gone.   

These guys would not finish till around 9 pm in the evening.  Working four long days and having three off is a good idea to me.  I never had the chance to do that but I think it works well, especially when delivering goods and considering the customers work hours.  I was pleased with them, I nearly gave them a tip I was so delighted.

Today I tried the machine, once I began to understand the booklet, and happily it worked OK.  How delightful to be wearing something that does not make dogs noses twich when I pass...