Hedingham Castle.

Having come by bus and dragged my bulk around the village under a warm sun  I wearily slogged up the driveway into the castle grounds.  On the way I was passed by several luxurious cars and the driver of one kindly waited for me after he and the rest had parked their gleaming chariots and offered oxygen and water as we climbed the slope.  The long drive can be a disadvantage in a large house.

Having joined the rich who had parked earlier we entered the house to listen to the owner tell the house history. Sir William Ashurst MP, one time Lord Mayor of London, created the house possibly when he bought the castle in 1713. Sad to say the house was finished in 1719 at which point the man himself passed away.  This fine house has since passed through many owners down to the present who had the opportunity to renovate the entire building, much needed work after many years of abuse.  Now, as you can glimpse by the desk in the library the place has been magnificently done up. With this library, and the way it is laid out, I was very taken.  Hundreds of books abound on the shelves and my heart, but not my wallets, desire is for a room just like this!

The garden is quite nice also!  The grounds are large, a gardener on a grass cutting tractor was working his way around as we entered, the large pool if that is the word, surrounded by glorious grounds, the variety of greenery all around was wonderful.  It took three of us to pull one woman away and force her into her car at the end.   It is no surprise the castle is now a wedding centre and many events are held here.  However I felt a bit guilty for intruding on peoples house, that does not seem right, but I suppose by this means they can cope with the mighty bills that come with renovation and the upkeep of such large fancy houses.  The lady of the house did not at any time come over as precious or superior and was excellent with all the gang.  Many asked questions as we wandered about and all were pleased with the lass.  

The variety of fireplaces alone as interesting, the paintings around the walls, the many plates and vases on offer impressed many.  In some ways it reminded me of Aunt Annies house, full of stuff she never used and was dated back into the far past. But my heart however remained in the library.  I refrained from using the stairs to visit the first floor as my knees might have objected, I forgot I was going into the keep!

Our party, supposedly 25 but certainly contained more than that, gossiped and murmured its way out through the wood panelled hallway halting only for one inquisitive individual to ask "What's that for?" and then pull the small lever on the bookcase.  The entire bookcase swung open to reveal the rooms you are not meant to see and enthral the Agatha Christie lovers.  No bodies were there discovered...as yet.

Brick lovers would have loved Tudor times.  Much of the outer wall of the castle was rebuilt at that time including the removal of the drawbridge and then the construction of this fabulous bridge.  I was much impressed with this.  Other red brick buildings are found but much later and it appears Tudor brickies were as popular as Victorian ones much later.
The castle rises magnificently as you approach and while the outer buildings have long since disappeared the effect is stunning.

The throng gathered themselves together as a brief interesting history of the Keep and the castle site was uttered.  As you know Aubrey de Vere, a Norman Knight and a friend of William the Conqueror, was in possession of what stood here in 1086, probably a small wooden castle, and his first work appears to have been to plant a vineyard.  Two points of interest here, one is that the vineyard did survive with red grapes apparently found in the grounds in recent years, and secondly he married William's half sister, every little bit helps when dealing with kings I find.
His castle will probably have been a wooden construction but his son began the ten year task of building this more formidable creation in 1140.  This reflects his wealth, position and power.  This also reveals how quiet the land had become by then as you only build such things in peacetime.  Most who lived during Williams invasion were long gone as would be the memory of the Saxon kings of that time.   
Among their visitors was the Empress Matilda, a very powerful lady in her day who ended her life here in 1151.  Her son took the throne as Henry II. 

Entering by the bottom door through the 11 foot thick walls we clambered upwards, not for the first time, into what was probably the storage area for the castle.  Here, lit by 'candles' that were bought from the 'Merlin' series, we learned the use of the floor in the past and now.  Recycling is good and the flooring came from I think she said Southend Pier when it was being renovated, and other items obtained in similar fashion.  The family may be well off but this lass did not squander cash and impressed us all with her knowledge, wisdom and personality.  Then, after having shown the interested parties the base where what arrived from medieval toilets was collected we headed for the stairs!  
Oh joy!

 The only way is up..and up...and up...

In the Banqueting Hall de Vere and his company wood eat at trestle tables possibly with table covers stuffing red deer and pheasants down their throat, with or without the wine grown on his estate. Rushes, and I suspect flower petals would be strewn across the floor making cleaning easier and treading on the petals released fragrance to cover the odour of the people!  No fitted showers on show.  Churches used the same trick, maybe they ought to try it again?  Just asking.  Several of our lot did investigate the historic loo tucked away round the corner but few were willing to try it out.  I was with them! 

Above us soared the biggest Norman arch in the country and on the Minstrels Gallery seen high above once strode Jesters, Minstrels and entertainers for the peoples stuffing it down below them.  Imagine the noise of a full hall.  The famous sitting at the top table, the lesser gentry further down.  The envies, jelousies and political games played while they ate.
Not all these Earls had good luck. Robert the 9th Earl was disliked by jealous courtiers who had him exiled to Flanders, there he was killed by a wild boar in 1392, rather a pig of a day that.  John, the 12th Earl, was loyal to Henry VI but when Edward IV took the throne suspicious people put both father and son in the tower.  During 1461 they were beheaded.  Being among the 'in crowd' does not always lead to success. John the 13th Earl suffered for his king enduring 12 years in prison.  Eventually he returned to win victory for Henry VII at Bosworth Field and received every sort of honour.  However in 1498 having entertained Henry the king suddenly realised how wealthy, and therefore how much of a threat he had become, the Earl was fined 15,000 marks to keep him in his place!  Never show your wealth to the king.

Around the castle tastefully thought out items appear such as these helmets which I am guessing are Norman, or at least Norman fashion.  I wonder what Elizabeth the first thought of it all when she visited in 1561?  The Earl would have had to stump up for her entourage and the cost of the food requirements would have been frightening.  The court travelled around the country ensuring they all knew who was in charge but the cost of provision would hinder many from equipping themselves with arms to rebel.

  
Whether these armaments ever saw action is unknown but they hang above the Hall reminding visitors on how Aubrey de Vere got possession of his home.  Politics is no less noble now than it was then, which means no nobility among the nobles whatsoever in my view, as long as they kept in with the ruling monarch all was well.
Unfortunately in 1216 almost all Essex Lords turned on King John as they were taxed about his taxes!  Especially as he required more than thought right and he kept losing wars, he was not a military man like his brother Richard. They, rebellious Essex men that they were turned, up at Runnymede and assisted him in signing the 'Magna Carta.'  Robert de Vere, the 3rd Earl of Oxford was a leader among them.  The Dauphin of France was asked to become King in John's place but John defeated the French garrison at Colchester causing that plan to fail.  For reasons of his own (money I expect) the pope sided with John and John then set out to visit Hedingham and remove the man in charge.  The siege lasted for some time and by using secret tunnels the besieged were able to obtain fresh fish which they threw at the attackers indicating they had plenty of stores.  However this did not last and the struggle failed.  John removed de Vere and took his lands as kings do.  A year later the position was reversed when the Dauphin himself took the castle and fighting ended when John died and weak King Henry III gave back all de Vere's lands to him.

 
I did visit the castle some 20 years ago when young and fit and clambered right up onto the roof.  This time huffing and puffing many of us were glad of the rope bannister alongside the wall as we trekked up and down the stairs.  Quite why a defibrillator or oxygen masks were not available we were too puffed to ask.  
One man asked where the lift was but got a rude reply.  
The White Hart, as seen in the window, was the sign of Richard II, it looks good tucked away in one of the many corners but the Earl followed Richard I know not. The windows are small but not suitable for shooting arrows at passing King John's I would have thought.  The narrow Minstrel Gallery you will notice brought joy to some of us as it indicated another flight of stairs.  It is surprising how so many old people raced up and down these steps without accident or heart attack.

 
The decoration carved on the doors must have taken some time, remember there are five floors all in.  The building took ten years to complete, one floor per year.  It was not possible to work in winter as the lime used in mortar did not set in such conditions.  The collection of the rubble, flints stone and what have you that they put in the walls must have taken some time.  The facing stone itself came from Nottingham some distance away.
Others over the years have taken delight in carving their name or comment into the walls, windows and elsewhere. There was not time to seek out the oldest but these could go back quite far.  At least as far as people who could write their names could go.

It struck many of us that the hall would have been very cold in winter, we had windows and heating, they had wall hangings and whatever to cover the icy gaps.  The sheer size of the hall would have made heating difficult even if a banquet was under way and the place crowded.  

Oh goody!  More stairs!  
At least there is a decent view all round.  I cannot imagine trees would be so abundant that close to the Keep when there was a threat of enemy attack.  Today the threat appeared to be pigeons nesting on the windows.

The make up of the walls comprised stone such as this with the Nottingham stone on the outside to present a decent face to the world.  This was the original entrance with the square building operating as a prison.  There was no door, prisoners were just dropped in from the top and a trapdoor shut on them.  
Good luck to you in there.  

It was amazing, while on the top floor now used as a museum, to see pictures of the great fire of 1918 which gutted the place.  All the floors to the bottom were reduced to ashes, furniture and all else inside destroyed.  The army, God bless them, had been on top of the roof making use of the height to signal to aircraft.  The men had lit a fire and somehow this led to the entire roof catching fire which then engulfed the building.  All the more amazing when we look at the work done today and see how well it has all been done up.

I thoroughly enjoyed the day even though my knees have yet to forgive me.  
The castle is now used as a wedding venue, lucky them, and has many other events from time to time, jousting, archers and re-enactors and such like which one day I might look in on. The general mood was good and everybody enjoyed the house, gardens and castle.  Of course this lot are history buffs and much knowledge was shared all through the day, in between lying on the ground seeking our breath, and I thought all went home happy.  
Especially me as one of the attractive young ladies gave me a lift home, several fought over the privilege, thus saving me meeting humans on the bus back.
A jolly good day out, and I slept well last night...

Hedingham Castle, well worth a visit 

even if you are not getting married!

Friday Wander

Wandering about Camolodunum today I discovered the Orthodox Church of St Helen tucked away round the back streets.  Greek Orthodox do appear in many byways in the UK, one in Bayswater was a large and wealthy church with all the top people attending, this sadly is somewhat run down today.  The picture makes it look better than it is (adjusting white balance to shade does this) and I was disappointing for the people there as it must cost a bit to maintain.
I was glad of the cool rest on a muggy day and took one or two shots and sat and looked around me. As the do the place was covered with icons, something I can never comprehend.  To me the book says read the book, baptism and Lords table, anything else, no matter how long it has been in vogue, is needless.  Yet in Orthodox circles such abound.  I wanted to take a few more shots but was disturbed by some unsmiling Mediterranean patrons who arrived, mother kissing several icons, dad another, all glaring at stranger.  I attempted to exchange a few words but was not made welcome and moved elsewhere.

The church was originally built in the eighth century possibly by King Offa of Mercia (the English Midlands) who had overlordship here.  The building was erected upon the foundations of a Roman theatre, this being the actors end, the ground rising behind.  Just a few doors up there is a small unopen museum where some remains can be glimpsed as can this model.

After the Boudicca revolt, she was upset when the Roman governor slapped her around, raped her daughters and grabbed her land, she was irked enough to burn down Verulanium (St Albans) Londinium (London) and Camolodunum (Colchester) and all those within, so the Romans strengthened the walls of the town, butchered most of her people and settled down in their new theatre.  Walls around the town were added quickly, just in case.
So the church was built on the foundations of the ruin and thin red Roman bricks can be seen in the walls.  Something seen on so many churches in Essex, old Roman villas are often reused. 
The Normans rebuilt what is now known as Colchester castle, although it was never really such, and around 1079 rebuilt the church which was a bit run down.  The reformation removed all the needless stuff and the building served many purposes until once again restored during Victorian days.  The Orthodox looking for a building now rent this from the Anglican owners and this gets used regularly after some years of standing empty or being used as a store.  How can such old buildings be used this way? 
Some believe St Helen, the mother of Constantine was born in King Coel's Castle, Colchester Castle, and this may be true I know not, she was probably born in Asia minor however.  She dug deep under Constantine's original Church of the Holy Sepulchre and found pieces of the 'Holy Cross.'  I have been down the steps leading to this area and have my doubts personally.  The idea of his mum with pick and shovel digging down intrigues me however.  British connection exists with this pair however as Constantine was declared Emperor while at York while his father Constantius Chlorus was governor of Britain.
Typical Yorkies!
The East Saxons living here by the way gave us the term 'Essex' and the present Essex County badge features three Seax's, the curved sword loved by the locals at the time. Some would love having one today if you ask my opinion.

Standing outside the 'castle' today you get a real understanding of the defensive position.  High on hills on three sides once the Roman walls went up it was very strong indeed.  The Romans of course never took the place by force, the locals in Kent and Essex welcomed the advantages Rome could bring and those that didn't got chopped.  The town had many Romanised locals and ex-soldiers residing their in safety until the man upset Boudicca.   After that a more Roman approach was adopted.

The comparison between Colchester and Chelmsford intrigued me today.  Chelmsford, the County Town (now City) is boring, however it is clean for the most part and while there are a few dregs walking the streets on the whole it is quite decent.  Colchester on the other hand is at first sight dingy, crowded and features many who appear either disreputable or had great social needs.
I have never seen beggars in Chelmsford but they exist in Colchester.  There are a great number who at first sight would be happy to appear on the 'Jeremy Kyle' show, other painted hussies of unclear age look like they have walked out of 'Eastenders' after having received too much make up and clothes clearly too young and too small for their wrinkles.  The nature of the narrow Roman like streets does not help even if it lends more attractiveness to the town than you find in Chelmsford.  Here at least a wide variety of small shops exist, some prospering for a decent time, but a dreich day gives the place a dingy look.
Having said that the area on the other side of the High Street slipping steeply downhill contains many houses going back hundreds of years, or at least newer homes built in similar style, this area known as the 'Dutch Quarter' after the Fleming's and others from France and Flanders escaping Spanish or other oppression in the fifteenth century.  Much of Essex gained from these immigrants, most of whom were weavers or dealers in the wool and cloth trade.  We might benefit from those immigrants arriving today by the way.   
Strangely I prefer the variety of shops in Colchester, many of them and a good selection, but it is a bit in need of a good clean.  Chelmsford has its uses but it is boring, just a big shopping centre and little else.

On the wall of one of those houses I found this and it reminded me of those similar signs once used in days before a fire service.  The householder would insure his house against fire with one company, a sign would be placed on the wall, if a fire broke out he would call the company and men would arrive to save the house.  No sign, no firefighting!  Edinburgh I believe was the first city to introduce a proper fire service, and I am not surprised.

A Cheerful Tale.

Battle of Stirling Bridge

Here we see a lovely shot of the 15th century Stirling Bridge that crosses the River Forth.  Up above on the hills stands the Victorian Gothic 'Wallace Monument,' the monument to Sir William Wallace and his victory here in 1297.  Wallace, one of Scotland's great hero's was indeed a man of courage, integrity and love of his country, he is not to be confused with a small cretinous New Yorker who fled to Australia to lose what marbles he possessed and make costly unhistorical movies!  The monument is correct in that Wallace led the Scots army at this battle, however it is erroneous in that this ignores the other leader that day, indeed the man who may well have been responsible for the tactics used, one Andrew de Moray!   At Stirling Bridge on the 11th of September 1297 these two men led their victorious troops to a crushing defeat of the imperialist English invaders!  Let us now stop for a moment to cheer wildly with delight!  Wallace is given credit for this glorious defeat of the thuggish English host but Moray is often forgotten, possibly this results from his dying from injuries received during the fight, he led from the front!  To forget such a man is sad indeed and moves are now afoot to place his name on record for his part in opposing brutal English domineering rule.

The Morays of Petty originate in the north of Scotland.  This was a troublesome district and King David I eventually pacified the locals after stiff resistance.  However the lack of resources, many leading Knights were killed during these battles, led him to seek suitable men to control the often violent locals.  One such man was a Flemish nobleman called Freskin, he built Duffus Castle on the coast of North East Scotland, near what is now RAF Lossimouth.  This remained a fiercely independent district for many years until the middle of the 13th century.  He also begat the Morays!

At the unexpected death of King Alexander III in 1286 Scotland was left with no monarch.  The popular King had been predeceased by the children from his first marriage and on a dark and stormy night, all alone on horseback eager to see his young wife, he was on his way to his home in Burntisland, Fife.  He never arrived.  He fell over the cliff in the dark and died alone.  The heir was his three year old granddaughter Margaret, the Maid of Norway.  Sadly she perished at sea crossing to take the throne of Scotland.  The political scene was then set for the intervention of the violent imperialist Edward I, King of England!  The noble Scots barons were more than keen to place one of their own on the throne, usually themselves, and as Edward had been on good terms with the wise Alexander who's first wife had been Edwards sister and at that moment relationships with Edward were good he was asked his opinion.  He accepted this opportunity with alacrity, on the condition that whoever was selected must also accept his overlordship. What a devious greedy man he was!  The choice was between John Balliol or Robert the Bruce, grandfather of the later King.  Edward chose Balliol, probably because he was the weaker of the two, and Balliol immediately bowed the knee to Edward confessing him as his overlord! The Toom Tabard he!!!

The grasping English imperialist poured his men into all the important aspects of Scots society, unwanted and unwelcomed.  Their influence in finance, church and law was so pernicious that even John Balliol had enough.  Eddie wasnie pleased ken like?  It did not take long for Scots to take action.  Andrew de Moray joined with several other nobles and made for Carlisle Castle, wreaking havoc around the area.  They however failed to take the Castle itself, the door being shut against them by one Robert de Brus and his son Robert, the future King.  Bruce's lands lay over the Solway Firth in the south west of Scotland and the intricacies of politics were playing their part.  The choice of Balliol must have hurt and Bruce played a long game here.  Both father and son had sworn fealty to Edward and joined the malefactors army as it destroyed Berwick on Tweed, then Scotland's richest city.  Here Edwards men spent three days of murder and rapine as they destroyed both the town and the 15,000 souls within.  Where were the Americans then eh? Shortly after this, near Dunbar, a Scots army was routed by the Earl of Surrey, John de Warenne, leaving 8000 dead they say.  The brutal repression of a free people quickly saw King John Balliol captured and imprisoned in the south, Scots nobles bending their knees, but not their hearts and many men, including Andrew Moray imprisoned.  Moray was kept in Chester Castle but somehow he escaped, possibly by ransom or bribing Hugh de Lacey the warden, and made his way home to the north, he was a determined man and his imprisonment may have encouraged his zeal.

After his victory Edward had placed his men in all the important posts and castles.  Sir Hugh de Cressingham became head of the treasury administration in Scotland charged with tax collection. Like all Englishmen he began to tax Scots beyond what they could pay, George Osborne reads this bit daily, and he and his men lined their own pockets as well as the treasuries.  The brutal repression, taxation and then the attempt to force men into Edwards army led to stiff resistance once again.  Throughout Scotland people rose up opposing the foul treatment of the oppressor. Many joining Moray up at, er Moray, in 1297 where he had regained control of his lands and began retrieving the rest of the north.  Andrew Moray began his freedom fight at the same time as Sir William Wallace, a John Balliol loyalist, was wreaking havoc on the invader in the south west.  Wallace disposed of the English High Sherriff, William de Heselrig, at Lanark, before attacking Scone and continuing a guerrilla war against the invader.   Other nobles, Robert Bruce amongst them, rose also seeking their fortune in this war.  (It is notable Bruce, who ranked higher than Wallace did not work with him.)  While the English empire builder was building an army to invade Flanders and steal their land, he had already forced the Welsh to bow before him, he found his attention distracted by serious trouble across the border.  The men he sent to put this down, often Scots he had imprisoned, failed miserably as they decided to join the rising. Englishmen who attempted to intervene did so at the cost of their heads, whoopee!    

Edward was peeved and he demanded that The Earl of Surrey,  John de Warenne, take action. De Warenne had led the Kings armies at Berwick and Dunbar but he had remained in the north of England rather than Scotland complaining the weather was too cold and harmful to his health for him to reside there.  He has a point!  His sloth allowed the hero's of the story to gather support throughout the land, the whole nation apart from one or two small English held places was now in uproar.  The invaders could not travel in safety, their friends less so, and at the approach of the Surrey's army Moray and Wallace joined their forces together at Stirling to deal with the malcontent English.

 Scots History

The battle was a short and cruel one.  Badly led by the Earl of Surrey, with reinforcements turned back long before they had arrived because Cressingham, in joint command, considered them too expensive and unnecessary, and with the first troops ordered over the bridge called back as the Earl was still asleep and his belief that he was once again facing an untrained rabble the day was set.  The suggestion of sending cavalry round the flank was rejected, on cost grounds by Hugh Cressingham, as he felt this may somehow prolong the war!   He did however lead the Knights himself as they crossed the small wooden bridge two abreast.  The Scots, now a trained and disciplined army, watched from above or hidden in the woods.  Once the commanders thought sufficient Knights and infantry had crossed the bridge the Scots spearmen, until then hidden from view, took up position blocking the access to the bridge.  The narrowness of the bridge and the by now fast flowing River Forth meant the crossing was under Scots control.  Cut off from the vast array on the other side this portion of the English invading army was doomed.  The ground here was boggy and a narrow wooden causeway, with bog and rocky ground on either side took away the Knights advantages.  Vengeance was taken for Dunbar and Berwick and for those many prisoners dying in captivity.  Around 100 Knights including Cressingham died, falling from his horse as it turned while attempting to fight his way back across the bridge, his associate Sir Marmaduke Tweng did manage to push through the defenders along with a handful of others while Cressinghams squire swam the river, others attempting this drowned.  Along with the Knights some five thousand English and Welsh footsoldiers were destroyed that afternoon.  In panic the English destroyed the bridge from their side and as their army began to fade away left the field.  The Scots army, mostly a peasant army, had some loss also, around 1500 with Andrew Moray leading from the front the most important amongst them.  It is likely he being a trained soldier was responsible for the tactics used this day yet his name is sadly forgotten.  A angry Sir William Wallace then had Cressinghams body flayed and the skin divided into portions and sent to every church door in the land.  This man was indeed hated in Scotland for his greed and corruption.
The Earl of Surrey saw his army falter around him and returned from whence he came.  He led from the front, the front of the retreat and Marmaduke Tweng said he ran so hard his horse 'never ate corn again!'  His opinion of the Earl was clear.  Edward I, known as 'Longshanks,' as he was much taller than most of his time, continued the absurd belief held by Englishmen even today that Scotland belongs to them.  The idea that this nation is 'North Britain,' is constantly found in the pages of the 'Daily Mail,' where those comfortably off types in the south east corner demand obescience from those north of Watford!  The imperialist wars continued until Edward died at Carlisle in 1307.  Having been traitorously handed over to the English King, William Wallace had been murdered at Smithfield in 1305.  His cause did not die with him.  Robert the Bruce fought his way to become leader of the Scots nation and in 1314 at Bannockburn, not far from Stirling, he once again savaged the English Edward II and 'sent him home to think again.'  

Two letters, dated October and November, sent to towns in the Hanseatic League are addressed as from "Andrew de Moray and William Wallace, leaders of the army of the realm of Scotland," both indicating Moray lived at least until November of 1297.  It may be Wallace had to use both names because of aristocratic jealousies, the Bruce's determination to gain ground, for instance. We sadly know so little of this man Moray who was important not just to William Wallace but to Scotland as a whole.  Soon a new memorial will stand at Stirling to commemorate his glorious achievement.  No doubt others will follow elsewhere, but hopefully not a Mel Gibson film!

Andrew de Moray  William Wallace  John Balliol  King Alexander III  Scottish History  

Toom Tabard  Robert the Bruce

Edward I (Longshanks)  Hugh de Cressingham  John de Warenne, 6th Earl of Surrey 

Sir Marmaduke Tweng

.

Mons Meg

Mons Meg

High up on the ramparts of Edinburgh Castle stands the colossal 'Supergun' known as 'Mons Meg!'  This monster weapon was capable of hurling a cannonball weighing around 385 pounds (or one American) over two miles distance. If it were to be fired today, just as it was in 1558 to celebrate the marriage of Mary Queen of Scots to the French 'Dauphin' François, the shell would do no good whatsoever to the Granton Harbour area! 


It was the French connection brought this behemoth to Edinburgh in the fifteenth century. The Duke of Burgundy, known as 'Philip the Good,' a title probably given him by some PR groveller earning a high fee, donated this gun to James II, King of Scots. Philip, being James uncle by marriage and wishing to ensure the Scots kept disputing with the English and thereby aiding the French fight with the imperialists south of the border, sent him the most powerful gun ever made as a gift! Being brought to life in the small (now Belgian) town of Mons, later to find fame as the place Britain entered the Great War against Germany in 1914, the name 'Mons' stuck to the gun. Quite which 'Meg' was responsible for giving her name to the gun is disputed as this was only added very much later. From early accounts it is possible she was just known as the 'Mons Gun.' 


The gun was used in anger only rarely. The weight of just over six tons made travel difficult and roads were of course just dirt tracks. The effort required, the number of oxen prodigious (which is another way of saying I don't know how many), and in those rainy days that frequently affect Scotland the mud would make travel very difficult and cause even the gentle folk of Scotland to express curses while pulling the beast. While 'Meg' was powerful it was also difficult to fire more than half a dozen shots at a time because of the heat given off by the powder required during firing. 'Mons Meg' was indeed trundled down to Roxburgh Castle in the borders to deal with a dispute there in 1460 but only once dealt with the English foe and that at Norham Castle, now just on the far side of the border. Cannon frequently exploded while in action and a smaller cannon did  just that fatally wounded King James II at Roxburgh. 'Meg' visited Dumbarton Castle in 1489 in an effort to impress the Duke of Lennox regarding his obedience however the guns progress was slower than a woman through a shoe shop and in time meant Edinburgh Castle became home for 'Meg' where she became a 'saluting gun!'


Apart from the 1558 firing when Mary married her Frenchman the gun was also fired in 1689 to greet James, Duke of Albany and York. He, as you will know, later became James VII and II. (That is, for our English audience, James the Seventh of Scots and James the Second of England. The English have a problem in forgetting that the James's were kings of two nations, not just theirs!) James VII & II by the way was rubbish! His grandson became known as 'Bonnie Prince Charlie, and a right Charlie was he as you probably know! It is interesting to note that when James the Duke of Albany and York arrived the gun was fired in salute by an English gunner. The barrel burst and this led to accusations that the gunner had deliberately overloaded the gun because the English were jealous they did not possess so great a weapon! I couldn't possibly comment!     

English grabbing of Scots property after the sell out in 1707 continued with the removal (by Pickfords I ask?) of 'Mons Meg' to the Tower of London' in 1754. She may well have remained there still had Sir Walter Scott, busy inventing a colourful Scots history to pay his debts, persuaded George IV to return her to where she belonged and so she arrived home, tired and weary, in 1829. Since then the huge gun has been attended to on the Castle rock by the keepers of antiquities and the numerous children who insist on clambering all over her.  Many a house has photographs of such hidden away in an album!

Day By Day

I originally posted this on another blog, but no-one read it and I kept forgetting to use it.  I will now transfer anything worth reading (in my opinion!) and dump it here.

.

Up Town Again

The trains were in one of their little anarchic moments today.  One train  has a problem very early in the day and everything falls apart. So as the timetable was out the door, made worse by the driver of my train claiming the brakes were not working!  Thanks for that pal!  So after the meeting with the man I made my way around the historic town.  Historic it is indeed, and I passed the 'Castle,' without entering and avoided the tour of the two large Roman arches that hold the beast in place.  The two large rooms were the last hiding place of the Roman and Romanised population when Boudica came calling.  her gentle womanly side saw her burn the town to the ground and this included those hiding here.  The remainder of the castle were rebuilt several times and the building is less a castle and more a large house, much altered!  

Outside the entrance stands the splendid War Memorial.  This historic town was also wealthy by the end of the 19th century and liked to do things in style.  A town this size sent many to the war and this is still a garrison town.  The town is the base for 2 and 3 Para battalions.  Several large expensive trucks roared past me today while several cars ferried off duty soldiers to places of refreshment.  The castle grounds contain several memorials including one of the few to those who fought in the 'Forgotten War,' the Korean War!  So few cared about that adventure, and with few televisions around information was not available then as now, so people just ignored it.  After the previous fifty years the UK rightly wished to get on with its life and avoid further entanglements. The 'end of empire' was sufficient trouble for most.  I wish I had pictured this now. 

I am not sure which battalion of the 'Essex Regiment he served with. 

The town hall has an excellent council meeting room and the late Victorian building is still the centre of the council. Next door stand the 'Old Library,' an outstanding building for such a work, and now a mere 'refectory' for the council staff.  Down the same street a lawyer has moved into a Tudor like building which, like so many here, dates back into the mists of timet.  The difficulty is that this area was used by weavers who arrived from the Flanders and Netherlands in days of yore and roads are very narrow, and indeed busy.  This makes photography difficult!  Vans and passersby do not help much either.  

  Ye olde Lawyers with ye new charges you bet.

 Town Hall and Old Library

Heading back to my wait for the train, and it became clear that the staff were working on a moment by moment basis as the announcements were somewhat unpredictable.  One train causes problems and the effect on a busy commuter line can take two days to put right!  On the way I stopped my weary body to get strength by stepping into St Peters Church for a moments contemplation.  This church is on the hill heading north and it becomes clear why this was used as a fort town.  The steep hill at this side gives a clear view for miles around, or would have in past times, and following on from the Britons work the Romans strengthened the defences and much of the wall still remains. None of the wall crossed my path today, actually walls rarely 'cross my path,' they do have a habit of staying put I find.  Originally the town was almost defenceless, hence Boudicas success, but after this Roman engineers got to work. St Peters is one of those rare churches mentioned in the Domesday book. There were at least two vicars in 1086, the town clearly wealthy even then, and it is likely that a wooden Saxon building stood here before this date, the Normans having the habit of rebuilding old churches in stone to impress on the populace their domination. The original building may go back further still but no record exists. There are foundations of a building from the 300's which appears to a church to the south of this hill and it is possible there may have been a small building here at that time also.  There as many old churches as buildings not surprisingly in this important town.

    
Inside I found a somewhat dark, and surprisingly large, almost cavernous, building.  Heavy dark wood, large windows but not receiving the sunshine during the middle of the day, and a aroma of candle wax hanging in the air. The place was empty and very quite, noticeable as a busy main road is right outside the front door, and I wandered down the aisle and deposited my self gladly in a pew.  Clearly this is an Anglo Catholic church, the wax aroma and what I took to be a confessional at the side indicate this. Many Church Of England buildings are closed and locked these days unless someone is on guard, theft being a major problem.  In busy towns there are those who remain open nevertheless to allow those who wish to a few moments of reflection, specially at lunchtimes. Maybe I am wrong but it appears to be the Anglo Catholics who do this more than others, I could of course be wrong.  When these imitation Roman Catholics emerged in the 19th century they chose a road that differed from the rest of the churches.  As towns and cities expanded the churches followed the people. Good idea I say, however the poorest were left behind in what became slum areas.  The Anglo Catholics chose to 'pastor the poor,' and built magnificent church buildings among the poorest people.  Possibly that attitude continues and is revealed in churches remaining open, quiet and ready for the individual. Another entered and I left him in the dim, quiet basilica and very happy indeed with my few moments headed for a disjointed train ride home.



.