Corfe Castle Rail

Lime St Liverpool 1954

Trapped indoors hiding from the bright sunshine, though I did risk this at 7:30 when I popped up to Sainsburys, I spent some time watching people at Corfe Castle Railway Station where 'Railcam' have now introduced a live cam.  This is a Heritage line, closed by BR years ago and reopened and worked by volunteers.  A Diesel show was on this weekend, something to bring in the crowds, and many men, and with the castle itself just above us for a visit many women also, camera carrying was in vogue.  I am jealous!

I was at the castle a couple of years ago with my friends from Bournemouth.  We struggled up the hill and struggled down again wishing we had visited the place 20 years earlier.  The view of the railway was a good one, naturally no train arrived until we moved on.  It was a good week however, and I decided then we must go onto that train when the steam is being used.  I then looked up the prices and we have been hesitating ever since.  Now she is not well this trip may not occur for some time yet.

The castle was well placed defensively, situated in the valley between to hills, on the road from the dock which had been used way back into Neolithic times, yes even your granddad was not born then, and the area I suggest sees more pleasure craft than working boats.  

Cromwell decided that it had to be blown up.  His worry was those opposed to him, those King lovers, would retake the place and make it a stronghold against him.  His dynamite worked well.  What also worked well was the locals removing stones to build their houses.  Many down in the town have indications of once being part of the castle, decorative pieces, names, etc.  Today these small cottages will cost you an arm and a leg, just as much as a railway ride!

Saturday Mope

It's a long time since I have been down at Poole Harbour, which is just visible as a dim hump in the far distance.   I dreamt of buying a wee house with a view such as this over the harbour, but decided the several millions required could be better used elsewhere.  I used to walk near here with a friend and we often contemplated a flat with a higher view, just up the way from here.  We both decided that a million pound for a flat was too much.  There again, having 47pence between us, this was an easy decision.  Dreams are cheap, but the more I look at rich folks throwing their money away on expensive items, mostly for show, I wonder if they are as happy as you and I are in our struggles?  How many are divorced, unstable, depressed, and looking for meaning by gaining more useless items?  I have done similar but at a cheaper level, it does not work.  Obtaining a property such as this may be good fun but you would end up mixing with the type of high flying greedy guts that you prefer to avoid.  Those who can cheerfully afford a £10 million house are not the people I want to live next to.  Obviously some would be decent, but those desperate to be among the higher orders would proliferate, and what a bore they would be.  

It is five years since I took this picture of Corfe Castle.  That seems like a generation ago.  Those living in Corfe, in houses made from castle stones, must be among the rich of Dorset.  A house near to the castle costs around £800,000, but it does come with a couple of thousand tourists outside your door, cameras clicking as much as their tongues, kids screaming, and traffic a couple of feet from your window.  I'm not sure I could enjoy that.  

The thing of course is to be where 'your people,' are found.

Not far from me, the main road north from historic times, dives down the hill.  Traffic flows day and night, yet people pay vast sums, similar to Corfe, to live amongst 'their people.'  In one way this is understandable, in another, I wonder if 'their people,' could be found in a better area?  We like to be with 'our kind,' and object when incomers to the country behave in the same manner.  An example I read of the other day was 'Green Lanes,' in London.  Many are Cypriots who came here in times past.  At one end Turkish Cypriots gather in coffee clubs as they did back home.  Up the road, sharing many of the same shops, Greek Cypriots live similar lives as lived back in the sunshine.  The distinction is clear, but they need to be near one another to live lives as they always have.  Together, but separate.

Humans are funny...

Corfe Castle Trip

Pack, repack, forget something rush to station. Unhappy sour people, previous train not arrive.  Busy lonely staff tries to help, gives tickets, explains again, surly responses.  Stratford means using lift to avoid stairs, then using stairs to get to right platform!  Fast Jubilee line, London people mix with globetrotters making an interesting sight, but not one to see every day.  Waterloo, miss train as platform to long and train driver ignores late passengers rushing towards it.  First on next train, comfy seat, coffee, read book, look out window at obscene high rise flats/offices then warm green fields, stilted dry crops, country life, blue sky and sunshine.  Arrive, welcome, sun reaches over thirty degrees, eat, rest, settle in, then out seeking life!

Shall we go here, there, here, there, over and on but in the end we go.  On way we change mind and in bout of stupidity stop at Corfe and enter Corfe Castle.  

Broken down by Cromwell during Civil War (how can any war be 'civil?') and left in bits ever since the solid entrance gates indicated a slow gentle wander up to the Keep.

Lies! All lies!  The gentle slope went on for ever.  My knees and his hip indicating displeasure as we climbed ever upwards surrounded by tourists of many tongues and not a few dogs and pre school children, I prefer the dogs!  

   
The gatehouse has many indications that this was not the most welcoming place.  Built around a thousand years ago with a Keep built of Purbeck Limestone at the heart created by William the Conqueror's son Henry I to defend the entrance to the land from the bay nearby.  The castle stands impressively atop the hill offering clear views for miles around and ensuring a strong defensive offering to any would be invader or local rebel.  The name 'Corfe' comes, as you know, from the old English 'ceorfan' which means 'cutting,' as the hill on which the castle stands cuts through the ridge of chalk hills on which it stands.

The archers view from inside.  I expect the floor was of a lower level in King John's time and that makes me wonder what may lie beneath?  I wonder if they ever attempt to look or will they consider it not worthwhile?  I suspect they know better than I.

Henry I indicated how loving his family was by imprisoning his brother Robert of Normandy in the castle, by then one of the strongest in the land and others were to follow the delight of being held here either in some degree of comfort or in the dungeon.   Both King John of ill repute and Henry III kept Eleanor of Brittany confined here as she threatened their position, typical woman!   She did survive however twenty or so of her Knights were not so fortunate.  

    
I think this was the medieval manner of keeping fit, you build a castle on a hill and get fitness by clambering up and down stairs and walkways day after day, cheaper than a local gym.

The castle was designed to look good as well as be efficient but Cromwell's men did very well in removing any possible defence capability with their gunpowder and engineering skills.  Massive walls these may have been but they collapsed well enough when pushed.

With too little information, too many visitors swarming around, school classes being educated about the civil war (by a lass of Indian descent) and the lack of breath caused by climbing this high without falling over the edge it gave little time to cogitate on those who dwelt herein during the castle's lifetime.  What was that door upstairs leading to?  Was it merely defence or did a king or queen live there?  If the kings life was somewhat sparse in comparison to 'Buck House' today what was life like for the workers, soldiers and the farmers providing foodstuffs and profit round about?  

Some residents today are doing very well.  In the nooks and crannies of the castle the Jackdaws were happy enough.  This was had been hovering in the breeze (breeze he says!) much of the time when not chattering to his mate.  He (or is it she?) looked contented enough.

 
A town naturally grew at the foot of the castle and the stone built houses are delightful to admire.  The break up of the castle has led to many stones appearing within these houses, occasional TV programmes venture into such and that which once graced the homes of the powerful now grace the homes of the well off.   These houses do not come cheap.  Is that stone tiles on the roofs?  
In past time these would have held the staff working in the castle, however their homes would probably have been rough stone with earth roofing, earth floor and somewhat inadequate sanitary arrangements.  Passing time brings improvements and the cattle, sheep and fields brought many wealth and comfort.

 
It would be possible to spend all day taking photos of the castle and searching the history.  One photographer was very keen and worked away taking several shots at various settings to get the right result.  Good for him I thought and later when I realised I had my camera on the wrong setting I became somewhat jealous!  Stupid boy, that means I have had to play with the pics somewhat. Bah!

One teacher had her enraptured class, well most of them, sitting in front of what was called the 'Gloriette.'  Judging by the Gothic type windows I considered this a chapel at first but 'Gloiette' means 'Little room' and this usually goes with a garden.  The 12th and 13th century building works appear to have been for comfort and enjoyment as much as for defence.  I loved the windows however I have no idea when they were added.

In a small dark room of to the side I suddenly noticed deep with the hole that at one time supported a floor beam sat this white dove.  Quietly but warily she watched our movements.  It was much darker than the picture shows and she appeared content while masses passed by unseeing.

   
Near the main gatehouse stood several huts which employed the castle carpenter and here the stonemason.  The area immediately after the entrance would once have teemed with workers, food areas, horses and soldiers going about or avoiding their business of the day.  At weekends now the castle puts on a variety of medieval or civil war re-enactments.  I wish I could be there at that time.  Speaking to the man on duty he answered one or two of our questions and appeared very knowledgeable and interested in the history and the visitors, it was a good response to find.

I wonder if King John or one of the Henry's ever slipped and fell and cursed as he made his way down to the gate?  The pathway is hardened to make life easier but in truth walking to the side was better, I slipped less!  

The 'Trebuchet' shone here is still used in exhibitions.  This brute can throw stones, balls of fire and dogs and horses collected leftovers over 300 yards, that's about three long football pitches.  The ball when it lands in the castle can be a bit messy.
During the English Civil War the end came for the castle.  Lady Mary Bankes held he castle for her royalist husband, in spite of Dorset being solidly parliamentarian, and withstood a siege during which see suffered two casualties and the attacking for suffered over a hundred!  However duplicity brought the end. One Colonel Pitman arranged to leave the castle and bring in a hundred reinforcements, however he returned with parliamentarian forces and having sneaked in (how do you sneak in and out with so many men?) he waited until the parliamentarian force attacked and then turned on the defenders.  Generously once they had surrendered Lady Bankes and the garrison were allowed to leave and parliament voted to 'slight' the castle leaving it in the present state.

When we set out we had no intention of visiting Corfe let alone the castle.  However as we ended up in that direction, don't ask how, we stopped and then entered.  This was done as they possess the cards from the National Trust and by offering me the son's card I too entered this way (devious I say).
Neither my knees or his hip realised how steep the clamber up would be, normally healthy people would survive and many aged and decrepit folks were up there along with us breathing heavily and hobbling along cheerily.  It was well worth the effort, not just because I could play with the camera on a wrong setting, not just for the views or history but because it was worth it!  We both were glad we made the effort while she wandered the shops and sat in the car people watching which is her latest hobby.  
The National Trust now own the castle and keep it in good shape, considering much of it is falling down.  The staff were friendly and efficient, the work well maintained and the education side clearly beneficial as school parties arrive and can clamber up and down and pretend they are knights, kings and queens and medieval folks.  Rather than than me when medieval folks did not have a microwave!   Corfe Castle is worth a visit however I would suggest going before the kids are released from school.  I enjoyed it.
Then we moved on....

Blurred Blue tit!

Corfe

The tiny village of Corfe is famous for one thing only, Corfe Castle.  This magnificent ruin stands high above the village giving a clear view of the land around.  Those coming by boat or land through the Purbeck Hills could not avoid detection from the defenders.  Purbeck of course was famous for the marble quarried here, the 'Isle of Portland' also famous for the stone that was used worldwide.  This is likely to have been used as a defensive site from very early on, it is thought Romans used it and certainly the Anglo-Saxons built a wooden fort of some sort before in the late 11th century those Norman chaps made use of the stone and encouraged the local labour folks to help them, and a man with a big stick is indeed an encouragement to work! 
The English Civil War, which was not I understand very civil at all, found the then owners, Sir John and Lady Bankes on the side of the monarchy and almost the whole of Dorset parliamentarian.  After his death in 1644 the castle was again subject to siege and was taken by treachery and the parliamentarians destroyed the castle making it unfit for purpose, however it was not by that time as effective as it had once been.  The Bankes family continued to own but not live in the castle handing it over to the nation in 1982.  A nice tourist trap which we did not have time to visit but a few million photos were taken.

 
I am not sure who took all the fotos, however this one does show something of the normal Norman style.  In the middle was the solid square 'Keep' which rose three or four stories, the walls around and with rounded towers to aid defence.  It is noticeable how much some of the walls now lean at angles, not much use when defending yourself.  I would have got closer pictures but a woman would have asked me to pay so I stayed at a distance, I did however get permission from the various bodies concerned for this picture.  Note the slight haze seen from a distance, this covered the land and could be seen from the ridge above but not once in the village itself.

 
Corfe itself is basically two streets, East Street, the main road, and West Street which isn't.  The masses of tourists, and the place is so small a 'mass' quickly forms, find a post office with a friendly man in control, several pubs, a castle, a church and houses.  It is clear an effort has been made to keep the 'tacky' elements of tourism to a minimum, well done Corfe!  In the middle stands a cross erected in 1897 commemorating Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee, it makes a good place for tourists to block the centre of town!  The old houses and major buildings are all made of Purbeck stone as indeed are the walls around the farms.  These give a grandeur to the villages we passed through and reflect something of the wealth amassed in times past, long before further down the road Swanage was important. 
This part of England is called the 'Jurassic Coast' because of the fossils and remnants of dinosaurs that once roamed the area.  Cue jokes from women re their men at this point.  Certainly women living here around 6000BC would have said such things, probably with as much reason.  In those days people would follow the herds of deer from around here and walk all the way to what is now northern Germany.  Once the North Sea arrived they were trapped on this island and how their life must have changed.  Celts, Romans, Vikings, Normans and all have lived here at one time down to the present occupants of the land.  The present population affected, even though they may not recognise this, by all those who have gone before.  As many of England's Kings and their families made use of the castle the small village may well have seen many famous people pass through - for the last time, you know how blood thirsty English royalty can be.

We did not have much time here, a quick poke around the two streets, the church, the Post Office for stamps and a look at the houses, some of which contain bits taken from the ruined castle, and not even a sight of the steam railway that runs through here from Swanage, and we missed the train there also.

The church had one of these beasties on each corner high above.  How old they are and who made them I know not, probably a Victorian I guess, but each was different and ready to send rain water on passers-by.  

Among the passers-by are many hikers and cyclists as this part of the world attracts tourists who like the sea and country, a great change from the city many are forced to inhabit.  However the hills are just that and we saw one example of equality where a couple walked their bikes up the steep slope, that is she waked he pushed both bikes.  Typical woman!  The area is good for fit cyclists so I would avoid it but the views from the ridge are excellent.   

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