Camulodunum Town

In spite of the persistent cough, the weariness caused by this cold, and the usual aches, I set off for a trip on the railway to an ancient city, Camulodunum!

Once again Greater Anglian Railways  worked well.  Trains were clean and on time, staff efficient, almost pleasant, though some would say the seats a wee bit hard.

The only downer was the two women, one young and one far from young who sat down in the seat in front of me.  The coach was empty so they sat next to me and talked!  Not just conversation, but grannie, who was dressed for a walking trip, and the painted hussy talked excitedly, enthusiastically, and said nothing!  

But they said it loudly!

I looked out of the window in case they turned in my direction.

It was indeed a very long 8 minutes before the train moved on the stroke of 10 am.  I looked forwards to 10 more minutes of this before we change trains.  However, the young creature left two minutes later at Freeport, clearly working in a shop designed for women with an arty feel and too much money.

Silence fell. 

The next 8 minutes were wonderful.  Only normal conversation could be heard through the now more populated coach.  As I pulled myself up to leave I noticed the walking grannie do the same.  As I alighted I ensured I moved to a distant part of my connection, which was full of normal passengers.  

Only a man asking for my ticket bothered me here. (£9:50 with old man card) 

One thing struck me, in days of old a job on the railways was for life.  Families followed their forefathers into the railways, it became part of the family.  I did not get the impression that many of the staff on the platform felt this way today.  Possibly drivers may have a different view of it all?

First call was to the ruins of St Botolph's Priory, built under the auspices of one William Rufus around a thousand years ago.  Reformation days saw it closed and soon it fell into disrepair.  However, to get there I had to pass St Botolph's Church, built 1836 in a type of Gothic style, next to the Priory, indeed it sits on what was the kitchen areas of said priory. 

I noticed this was open, it was not open last time I was here about 10 years ago, and now they open for prayer between 12 - 1 pm.  Good for them.

Considering the ruins are only half of the original size, people must have used the stones on their houses over the years, it speaks volumes of the importance of Augustinian's to William the Conqueror and his family.  Surely most houses at that time would have been plaster and lathe?  

Placed just outside the old Roman walls this must have been an astounding site for the locals, many of whom will have been forced to work on building it.  The Norman's liked to make a statement with their buildings.

Through what had once been a window, possibly making use of coloured glass, I saw this couple along with a man playing what I think is called a 'concertina.'  The couple stood over a grave or two and sang while he played.  I considered approaching and enquiring but thought better of this.  Who knows how long this has been going on in Colchester graveyards?  

The priory came to house many grave and vaults of the great and good.  One was Dr Roger Nunn.  He became a doctor in the town, rose to prominence, was involved in many good deeds, became Mayor eventually, helped the building of St Botolph's Church, and the hospital, which is still in use.  He gives the appearance of a man of ability who succeeded in improving the town for all classes.

There is of course, a war memorial in this graveyard.  The phrase 'The Glorious Dead,' reveals the sense of loss at the time, and the need to believe the cost was worth it.  It also gave those mourning somewhere to congregate as so many were buried overseas, or not identified.

The difference between Colchester and Chelmsford is simple, Chelmsford is boring, just a shopping centre, Colchester has these small roads full of shops.  The arrangement, caused by living inside the Roman walls gives the place a character not found in Chelmsford.  This long road, lying just outside what would have been the walls, has three names in different portions.  We are standing in Sir Isaac's Walk just now.  Who he?  In Colchester tells us...

 Sir Isaac’s Walk

Sir Isaac’s Walk was named after Sir Isaac Rebow (1655-1726), a local landowner who was Colchester’s MP for many years, and also its mayor, recorder, and high steward at various times. He lived in Rebow House, at the corner of Head St and Sir Isaac’s Walk.

The historical record shows that Rebow was a corrupt politician who left the town’s finances in a terrible state, and was cruel to his family and servants.

He was also a director of the South Sea Company, and a major shareholder in the East India Company. The South Sea Company was set up to ship enslaved African people to Spain’s colonies in Latin America. It is estimated that the company transported around 34,000 enslaved people over the 25 years it traded. The East India Company was also heavily involved in slavery and forced indenture in India.

He does not appear to be a nice man.  Still, Colchester named that section for him, what does that say about them?

I had no choice but to haul my bulk, in the heat, across to the Balkerne Gate!  This was the Roman exit heading west, passing my house as they tramped, hoping to spend the night at the crossroads in town, thus giving the troops a one day march, unless an emergency forced them to continue further.  

It is kept in decent condition, in spite of the publican next door sometime in the 1840s knocking half of it down.  This he did because the railway had arrived in Colchester, well, actually far from Colchester, at the bottom of the hill.  He made space so travellers could see his hostelry.  The station cannot be seen from here today however.  

I considered entering for lunch but noted his 'Pint £5:20' notice outside.  Possibly to keep students away, possibly for those attending the Mercury Theatre opposite and to the left of the photo.  They can afford his prices.

What once was used as the bothy for the Roman soldiers, mostly from Gaul or Germany, while on guard duty now hosts a couple of attractive plants, happy to live on the old stones.

St Peter's Church here at the top of North Hill, and you have to realise Colchester sits at the top of a hill almost all around, was mentioned in the Domesday Book in 1086.  The church was probably begun in Saxon times yet little is known of those far off days.  There were then two priests which reveals wealth, and the town had seven in all indicating other churches were nearby.  When the Priory got going it took over the church in 1102, typical big business, and appointed their own man in charge.  

Things changed over the years, buildings are developed, bits added, and in 1692 an earthquake shook the town damaging the tower and knocking chimney pots off roofs.  I do not think any were killed but shock upset many.  This church flourishes today but unlike St Botolph's, no longer remains open at lunchtimes.

Priests were a strange bunch, most followed where they were told to go but occasionally one appeared to believe the scriptures.   One such was John Ball, he was working in Colchester at times, though his somewhat radical sermons and his desire to make use to Wycliffe's bible in the vernacular caused much annoyance to the Archbishop and others.  

He was jailed several times, banned from preaching, but still managed to speak all around Essex and Suffolk, until jailed again in Kent.  In 1381 he was released by Kentish rebels and addressed the rebels at Blackheath saying:-

'When Adam delved and Eve span, 

Who was then the gentleman? 

From the beginning all men by nature were created alike, and our bondage or servitude came in by the unjust oppression of naughty men. For if God would have had any bondmen from the beginning, He would have appointed who should be bond, and who free. And therefore I exhort you to consider that now the time is come, appointed to us by God, in which ye may (if ye will) cast off the yoke of bondage, and recover liberty.'

 

Arrested in Coventry, tried convicted, hanged, drawn and quartered.  

I wonder what he would have made of the Church of England today?

Having noticed the £5:20 charged at the 'Hole in the Wall,' I lost any intention of having lunch.  However, the name of this pub made me  consider it again.  I mean, in Camulodunum you have to visit the pub called by that name have you not?  I considered the people sitting outside and decided it was worth a try.  I slunk wearily to the bar, a bar offering a dozen beer pumps featuring beer I had never heard off.  That's the trouble with pubs, unless you know the company running them you have to guess what beer is on offer.  The not too keen barmaid sulked when I indicated IPA, the only name I knew, suffering me long enough to give back change.

This is a decent, well laid out establishment, who's clientele appeared to be of similar age to myself.  It was likely that most were regulars, though the board across the way advertised cheap student drinks.  I suspect they may be drawn in come evening time.  If in town again I would once again enter in. 

I was happier to sit than I realised.  Everything was aching, from my feet up and my ears down, and I had only been wandering about for just over an hour.  Nothing for it but to sit there watching young students pass by.  Are these girls 16 or 18 I wondered?  Are they at the16 year old collage or the University the town boasts about?  There were many about, this being lunchtime, mostly female, few males, why?  I once got a single deck bus home, an hours journey, full of such females from the 16 years collage, their conversation is not what I wish to endure again.   

Enlivened by IPA, but not by enough, ought I to return for another?  I made my way to the castle.  On the way I noticed the M&S store had closed down.  Such a busy wee town yet both Debenham's and M&S have gone, I think Primark is the only large store left.  What does that say about the cost of living and big business competence?  

The Castle is of course not a castle.  It stands on the remains of the Roman Temple, supposedly the temple of Claudius, and the remaining double arches that form the basement were the only parts of the temple to survive that nice Boudica woman when she passed through.  The Romans and the Romanised locals who sheltered there were trapped when the place was burnt to the ground.  

Rather typical of a woman in a bad mood I say.  

It is £13:50, no concessions for the aged, to enter, so I didn't.  It is 20 or so years since I was inside, when I and one other whoever he was, got a tour by a Blue Badge Guide.  Very good it was too, and since then vast sums have been spent doing it up, hence the entry fee.  Mind you I was not capable of walking around there yesterday. 

The gardens around were busy, sun now shining without cloud cover, and judging it was getting time for a train I headed back down via all the charity shops along the way.  Sadly this was disappointing, though each and everyone of these shops was busy, as nothing suited my needs.  

I could not avoid this impressive war memorial.  The figures on it are tremendous.  The council at the time clearly considered themselves important enough to spend vast sums on an expensive and outstanding memorial to the fallen.  How much of that is civic pride as opposed to remembrance you can work out for yourself.  

I stopped off for a moment in St Botolph's prayer hour.  This lies just around the corner from the station, as indeed does the magistrates court in case you require it.  Then climbed aboard the train that had just arrived.

The railway crossing here allows a view of the old houses dating back many years that flow down from the East Hill.  Once the town expanded it had to go down these hills as the centre has little space.

It was then I realised I was not on my train.  I just climbed aboard, somewhat surprised at how quickly it left the station, before realising this train runs just between Colchester and Colchester Town.  No one warned me about this.  I was surprised and wondered if this could pay, however the number climbing aboard as I changed once again made it clear this was a popular train.  £3:10 single ticket, good for those coming off one train, and Colchester is a busy station,  and cheaper than the bus to get from north of town to south.  

Once again a short wait brought a 720 to head me homewards.  I moved to the head of where the train would stop partly to take pictures with no-one in the way, partly because the walking grannie was there also.   Anyway I positioned my self so the train at my next change would stop exactly at the lift shaft.

It didn't.  

It went two coaches further.

I made use of the lift, walked to the next one, kept the door open for a cyclist, again kept it open as he left, and moved to the front portion of my train which arrived as I walked.  All that was left was hobbling up that steep hill, finding food ready and waiting for me, and sleep, lots of sleep, oh and a bit of cramp.  

This morning I ache everywhere.  No trips for a while now.   

A Memory Post

Today is another boring day.  The highlight was taking the rubbish down for collection tomorrow and eating a bad lunch.  This comprised a (reduced price) veggie lunch which claimed to be a 'Turkey Wheat Protein' thing.  Having cooked it, been scared by the noise of the alarm that I forgot was on the oven, and chewed my way through this 'wheaten' mass, I came to the conclusion that it was in fact bread!  This I reckoned because of the word 'Wheat.'  Take wheat, mix with various things, add nuts, cook forever, and wonder why you did not just make a thick sandwich?  'Thick' was a word going through my mind.  Maybe I ought to read the labels better rather than just look at the price?

Anyway, here is an old picture of what was once a thriving port called Maldon.  A few years since I was there last, and I kind of miss being by the sea, even if it is just this little estuary.  Ships did sail far from here in times past, a great many of the Barges sailing up the Thames to London carrying various goods, often agricultural to London, other goods in return.  Huge loads often on the barges but only two men usually operating the vessel.  

Like Maldon the two railway museums will have been missing visitors.  This very evocative view of the water tower at the Colne Valley Railway reminds me off a good day there before Covid.  Quite quiet that day so it was possible to get around with little trouble.  A trip on the DMU was included, though we did not go far, and plenty to see for a museum with so little space.  I like that sort of museum.

 

When in Colchester one time I came upon this school.  It had a very attractive 1920's type building (possibly earlier) and above the doors there were signs indicating for whom the doors belonged.  We had nothing like this on our 1932 primary, though we were segregated into boys and girls, and today sadly the kids are mixed together at all times.  I disagree with this as male and female are made differently, boys and girls need to play with their own kind and this forced mixing is not good.  Even if they were separated on say, Tuesday and Thursday only, this would enable them to develop much better.  

The results of present day cohesion are all around us, boys who think they are girls, girls who think they are boys.  Confusion reigns in many young minds rather than being allowed to be what you are made.  Good grief that gives enough problems anyway, why did women teachers insist on this as it does no-one any good.

 

How many of you still have one of these lying around the house?  That is, hidden in a cupboard, unsused and with nothing to add it on to.  I have one in a cupboard, I have records, mostly scratched, and possibly ruined by the cold weather.  No way of playing them now.  However, many people are buying such records, money can be made, but I am not parting with mine...

"We Apologise for the Delay..."

The sun is shining, it's everywhere, don't have no worries, don't have no care so I trooped off to the bus stop for what the internet told me was the 10:29 bus.  Naturally the Bus station indicator read 10:33.  I waited, he waited, then she also waited but nothing happened.  We stared at the bus station entrance but that did not work until I got fed up of warming myself amongst this lot and headed down to the railway station where I changed my tentative plans and reached for my old man 30% off card.  Colchester it was then and he comes my train as I changed at Witham running on time to take me to my destination.
My knees were not too keen however.

This was not my real intention today as I had t come here many times a few years ago and did not find much enthusiasm for the place.  I had less enthusiasm for the adolescents from the collage wandering about like 16 year old's.

 
The Mill here on the Colne River has been in use at least since the 1100's and possibly from before that.  Most of the time it dealt with 'corn,' that is wheat to you and me, but occasionally had other uses.  Colchester of course goes back to the Romans and before them possibly the site was used early after the last ice age 8000 years BC.

You can see from this how effective the hillside offered a defensive perimeter.  After the Romans rather stupidly did not organise such defences Boudica destroyed the place and Mr Emperor ensured such a mistake did not happen again.  Much altered since it shows just how difficult an attack from ground level would have been.  

Being one not renowned for intellectual stimulus I continued to walk very slowly in heat reaching some say 29%.  The walk around the castle park is indeed long and while my body ached I found I just had to see what was around the corner.  I knew a pill box stood nearby having found it 20 years ago and here it remains.  Blocked off now and impossible to enter it was part of the UK's defences against that nice Mr Hitler who did not bother to visit. 

Situated here on a bend of the Colne it offered the defenders a good view of the river, and I suspect most of the trees had been removed then to give a clear sight to them, it also offered a very good chance of death if attacked as not other pill box stands nearby to cover, unless it stood on the other bank among the new housing estates.

 

If indeed the trees were scrubbed in 1940 they have returned well in the years since.  All around the trees tower overhead and these men in particular impressed me with their height.  That may have had something to do with the blue sky and burning sun behind them of course.

Now remember I just wanted a dawdle in the sun not a twenty mile hike and here I was, at two miles an hour, hurpling along further and further from the railway station and knowing full well that I had miles to go back to get home.  It was however the old desire to see what was round the corner once again that made me limp on.  How stupid can an individual be?  I was aware of many things forgotten since the last sunshine many moons ago.  I ought to have worn the sunglasses glasses not these ones, I ought to have a hankie to wipe away the perspiration that flowed so easily, and I ought to have ensured I had bought a lighter jacket from a charity shop for the summer.
The only bright spot was buying a 59p bottle of fizzy water to carry in my pocket, usually I forget that.

 
This huge building was working when I last passed this way 20 years ago.  The water, with a tidal reach of about 20 feet from what I could guess, was full of suitable working boats.  It is of course now flats!

Next door the building, called 'The Mill' was an interesting sight, also flats and possibly some other noisy use.  I did not venture round to look.

Camulodunum was built on the hill and here at the bottom near the quay stood a variety of aged houses.  The river has been in use for thousands of years and the Romans made good use of it at this point to bring in goods from Gaul and troops from wherever.  This house appears to have been quite substantial in itself and had another 'front' added on to the side facing the road at a point later in time. 

This is more typical Essex substantial house, one that began with a 'hall' and added things as they prospered over time.  I suspect it goes back to the 16th century at least.  

It looks like some rich man has benefited the poor by providing 'almshouses' here.

In the days before Thatcher, sorry the benefits system people often stuck their hands in their pockets to aid the poor, a system that does not exist today because the media through constant propaganda have convinced the nation at large that those on benefits are all scroungers, even if their legs have been blown off and an arrow sticks out of their head, they are fit to work!  Much more of that after Brexit!

The main building supplied all their needs although i suspect this is now accommodation of some sort and the whole place may no longer be for the poor but for the very rich!   It is important when wandering about to look up as above the road there are always signs from the distant past to see.

By now I was aware of how far I still had to travel and my muscles were informing me of my stupidity in a manner worthy of a medical student.  I ached and ahead of me lay 'East Hill' and like most hills this one went upwards.  Not the names, nothing fancy here, 'East Hill,' 'North Hill,' I suspect that is the military influence, still strong as until recently a huge army complex, now housing, lay in the middle of town.  I think I am right in saying the Para's still have places here though this time I saw no army vehicles whatever.

This building intrigued me, a small 'church' looking style of housing with unreadable words above the window.  However my bleary eyes made out the word 'Orphanage' in time, yet another example of church people doing the work the state now does, possibly better!  It was also used as a girls school and was paid for by a Mr A. Diss and cost him £700 to erect!

No charitable person appeared offering to carry me up this hill past the run down aged housing come shops that have stood there for hundreds of years.  They were not built to withstand such traffic rumbling past though the ones on the other side of the road were better built and mostly of a Georgian or Victorian time.

Foolishly I watched as a bus stopped at the bus stop and the driver remained there in an attempt to fit into his timetable.  Foolishly I ought to have whipped out the bus pass and got myself up the hill.  I didn't!  He drove on.
However on the other side sat a large once glorious building now refurbished and possibly an office complex featuring this fine bird high above the road making it obvious what the original company stood for, well not to me!   
In fact the area here is the 'Eagle Gate' one part of the towns defences.  The building was built by the 'Colchester Brewing Company' in 1888 indicating a flow of cash had arrived since 1828. 

Beer was beginning to lodge itself into my temperance mind as I ploughed on uphill.  The I noticed this Georgian (?) building squashed alongside two more showy offerings.

Above the door we see yet another image of Jesus tending his sheep.  The image of the shepherd not really working too well in this concrete jungle in which many live but the fact remains true.  This also must have been an offering towards improving or teaching people, probably young folks.  Do similar works exist today?

Almost at the top of the hill I found St James the Great standing ready to welcome me with open arms, which it didn't last time I passed as it was closed.  This church like so many others would open daily but folks do tend to wander in and pinch things so it was open this time for a small service in the side chapel.  A very nice chap at the entrance encouraged me to enter even though the service was almost finished and so I did and thankfully sat in a pew at the back and discovered my body preferred sitting to walking uphill.

As you might expect this cavernous church has stood here from around the 1200's and most likely a wooden Saxon building stood here before that.   I sat and listened at a distance unwilling to wander about as the wee service continued in the corner.

  
I was hesitant about photos also in this high church anglo-catholic church but I managed one or two.
These long poles carried by the verger during parades in such churches are often delicate artistic items.  However reading about the local church in the 1600's we see the verger/beadles often using their staffs to ensure unruly youths ((forced into church by law and uninterested in what was taking place) paid attention and kept the noise down.  Such churches often have graffiti on pillars as the crowd stood through the service and often found ways to keep themselves occupied.

 
 I left the friendly Beadle and made my way into the edge of town for lunch which comprised one £3:90 worth of Colchester No1 in the rather trendy 'Three Wise Monkeys' 'Tap House.'   Here I was served by an attractive friendly young woman who along with her friend helped lift me out of the soft clinging chairs used to trap folks into staying all night.  At that price right enough I could have bought food!

Staring out the pub window I cogitated on my return to the railway station.  Either through the crowded hot town (always a 'town' here not a 'city' as they wish to keep the dubious accolade of 'England's Oldest Town.'  I decided again my aches crying out to get the bus to wander through the castle grounds, a mistake by the way as it was downhill and I could hardly walk properly as I went down the slope.  Fool that I am!  

After a slog through the uninteresting boring hot streets full of decent houses I took what I considered a short cut and got to the station as quick as if I had gone the other way.  Here announcements informed me as I drank my £2:50 Americana coffee provided by the busy yet friendly lass in the 'Pumpkin' cafe on the platform, that the train was late, very late as it happens, because of signalling problems.  Surely I thought others would also be late until I realised this one came from a different starting point.  'Slow' is a word many of my teachers often used, one or two used other words.  However my carriage arrived as we see here and happily the crowd climbed aboard and I found myself sitting in a suitable seat to get the full benefit of the sun shining through my window, jolly!

 
I have to change trains as on the outward journey and was greatly cheered to find I had arrived seven minutes after my hourly train had departed!  Once again I sat in the sun watching the girls trains go by, once again near to the arrival of my train the repeated announcement that the '15:29 for Colchester Town is running late de to technical difficulties.'  This was running also in front of mine which meant my 15:35 was going to be late as indeed it was becoming the '15: sometime or other' when it arrived.  
I entertained myself by taking pictures of the rabbit in the distance chewing away at the abundance of vegetation on the remains of the one time Maldon line.  No trains here since Beeching and few before that.

The train speedily made it to home arriving at the time he ought to be departing.  I was home by 16:12 aching, hot and bothered, and desperate for food, rest and a massage from an attractive young woman.  One of these has not arrived.
I ache, I was daft in walking so far in the sun, my head is like a beetroot and as hot as an oven, and I am not planning going anywhere tomorrow, bar Tesco that is.  However the change in plans was enjoyable, I love the train!  I met good people, saw interesting things and got out of myself for a while, much needed at that.  So I am pleased but the pictures are snapshots as I was too weary to compose properly and just snapped things I liked.  I missed a great deal.  However it was a good day in the sun.