Western Front Way

The purpose of this book is to publicise 'The Western Front Way.'  This is an idea based on the thoughts of one 2nd Lieutenant Douglas Gillespie of the Argyle and Sutherland Highlanders.  His dream, in late 1915, was o a pathway lying along the 'Front' between the opposing armies, the intention being to look upon the cost of war and perhaps bring reconciliation and peace between enemies.  All very noble but a dream that came to little at the time, Gillespie himself being killed in action during the Battle of Loos, his body, like so many others never recovered.  The effect of his family back home in Linlithgow of his loss, and that following on the loss of his brother a year before, must have been heavy.  Well educated middle class sons who went to 'good' schools, usually one offering an 'Officer Cadet Training Squadron,' saw the loss of many 'sons.'  Such officers, often with much less experience than their men, were always the first to go 'over the top' in any action.  As a result, such officers suffered proportionately higher loss than that of the private in the ranks.  

The war rumbled on for another three years after Gillespie died at Loos and there was little desire for reconciliation or peace in the years following the war.  Belgium saw the vast majority of the nation under German control, only flooding the land in the north prevented further incursion.  France hurried to remove the mess left by the war, hidden explosives removed, trenches filled, land once again ploughed over to return to farmland.  The idea of 'reconciliation' was far from many French and Belgium minds in 1918.  

In recent years Gillespie's words have reappeared and many took up the idea of a long path along the line of the Great War Front.  'The Western Front Way,' now appealed to many, especially in Belgium where support for remembrance of the war has always been strong.  Whether this was in regard to the wars memory or the idea of thousands of tourists searching the land where their family and friends had fought is not easy to determine.  Many of those financially able did seek out the graves of their dead, some hoping to find their by still alive, somewhere, somehow.  Tourism covering now two wars is indeed big business in this part of the world.

Sir Anthony Sheldon, a head of private schools, had often taken students across the battlefields of France and Flanders.  He had acquired a great interest in the war and had picked up some History on the way.  Along with others he worked to bring the idea of the 'Way' into reality.

In an effort to publish the 'Way,' as well as recovering from the loss of employment and the death of his wife, Seldon decides to walk the entire length of the proposed pathway, almost a thousand miles.  His intention is to begin at the far end, the Swiss border, and from there walk towards the North Sea.  This is a simple proposal, and a noble one.  There are however problems here.  For a start he is not a long distance walker, he is 68 years old, the walk takes place late in summer, and Covid restrictions hinder progress and ensure almost all businesses are closed, this means hotel and other facilities are very limited.  However, he manages to survive and eventually finishes the course.

Several problems concerning the war remain however.  The majority of the 'front' has been swept away, especially in France where there appears little desire to 'remember.'  In the southern parts, where it was France v Germany alone and thousand died on both sides, little remains of the conflict.  Occasional villages stumps can be seen, the evidence of heavy shelling, instead of rebuilding the village a new one is often created along the road.  Memorials exist but the indication here appears to be that these are not visited much by locals.  

Elsewhere the border itself has moved and for a 'pathway along the front' the author appears far from the actual battle lines in my view.  Modern day construction, woods, farmers fields and the roadways interfere with a war 105 years before.  The needs of today take priority.  

Belgium is more interested in the 'Way,' and already the path is marked out in places.  There can be no doubt that such a path will bring tourists interested in war and visiting Europe to walk or cycle, France prefers cyclists to walkers, and small business along the way will indeed benefit.  Will 'peace' be encouraged by such a walk?  The idea did not stop a second war 20 years after the first, it has not stopped fighting in the Ukraine, Cameroon, Syria, north Africa, southern Sahara, and many other places.  Human nature does not change, and somewhat hopeful attempts at 'peace' will not defeat the human 'self.'

The writer managed a very difficult walk in hard circumstances.  His emotions were disturbed, his feet painful, and while it is a requirement of such books to mention all such instances I found it became somewhat embarrassing as the authors life unfolded before us.  There is a limit as to how much of the author needs to place in such books.  

I also found his History of the war to be somewhat unsound.  An example is his condemnation of the generals for the battles at Loos and the Somme.  He ignores the politicians demand that forced these battles on the generals.  Possibly this is because he himself is an honorary Historical adviser to No 10?

Theses two battles were rejected by the generals as being impossible places to fight.  However, London 

preferred the opinion of French generals to British ones and thousands were lost because of this.  You can add Gallipoli, Salonika, Mesopotamia and Africa to this list of London failures, yet the generals are blamed.  The generals did not have friends in the press!

The idea of this walk is a good one, many will make use of it, but any idea of peace comes from hope rather than an understanding of human nature.  Far many the book will be a good starting point on a journey, but for me with Covid hindering progress much required information for the walker is missing.

I also found the author tiring and struggled to finish the book.  While he offers historical insights into some fighting as he passes this is overshadowed by too much of his own troubles.  It is to be hoped a better guide will be forthcoming in the near future.

@Punch 1981