Having come by bus and dragged my bulk around the village under a warm sun I wearily slogged up the driveway into the castle grounds. On the way I was passed by several luxurious cars and the driver of one kindly waited for me after he and the rest had parked their gleaming chariots and offered oxygen and water as we climbed the slope. The long drive can be a disadvantage in a large house.
Having joined the rich who had parked earlier we entered the house to listen to the owner tell the house history. Sir William Ashurst MP, one time Lord Mayor of London, created the house possibly when he bought the castle in 1713. Sad to say the house was finished in 1719 at which point the man himself passed away. This fine house has since passed through many owners down to the present who had the opportunity to renovate the entire building, much needed work after many years of abuse. Now, as you can glimpse by the desk in the library the place has been magnificently done up. With this library, and the way it is laid out, I was very taken. Hundreds of books abound on the shelves and my heart, but not my wallets, desire is for a room just like this!
The garden is quite nice also! The grounds are large, a gardener on a grass cutting tractor was working his way around as we entered, the large pool if that is the word, surrounded by glorious grounds, the variety of greenery all around was wonderful. It took three of us to pull one woman away and force her into her car at the end. It is no surprise the castle is now a wedding centre and many events are held here. However I felt a bit guilty for intruding on peoples house, that does not seem right, but I suppose by this means they can cope with the mighty bills that come with renovation and the upkeep of such large fancy houses. The lady of the house did not at any time come over as precious or superior and was excellent with all the gang. Many asked questions as we wandered about and all were pleased with the lass.
The variety of fireplaces alone as interesting, the paintings around the walls, the many plates and vases on offer impressed many. In some ways it reminded me of Aunt Annies house, full of stuff she never used and was dated back into the far past. But my heart however remained in the library. I refrained from using the stairs to visit the first floor as my knees might have objected, I forgot I was going into the keep!
Our party, supposedly 25 but certainly contained more than that, gossiped and murmured its way out through the wood panelled hallway halting only for one inquisitive individual to ask "What's that for?" and then pull the small lever on the bookcase. The entire bookcase swung open to reveal the rooms you are not meant to see and enthral the Agatha Christie lovers. No bodies were there discovered...as yet.
Brick lovers would have loved Tudor times. Much of the outer wall of the castle was rebuilt at that time including the removal of the drawbridge and then the construction of this fabulous bridge. I was much impressed with this. Other red brick buildings are found but much later and it appears Tudor brickies were as popular as Victorian ones much later.
The castle rises
magnificently as you approach and while the outer buildings have long
since disappeared the effect is stunning.
The throng gathered themselves together as a brief interesting history of the Keep and the castle site was uttered. As you know Aubrey de Vere, a Norman Knight and a friend of William the Conqueror, was in possession of what stood here in 1086, probably a small wooden castle, and his first work appears to have been to plant a vineyard. Two points of interest here, one is that the vineyard did survive with red grapes apparently found in the grounds in recent years, and secondly he married William's half sister, every little bit helps when dealing with kings I find.
His castle will probably have been a wooden construction but his son began the ten year task of building this more formidable creation in 1140. This reflects his wealth, position and power. This also reveals how quiet the land had become by then as you only build such things in peacetime. Most who lived during Williams invasion were long gone as would be the memory of the Saxon kings of that time.
Among their visitors was the Empress Matilda, a very powerful lady in her day who ended her life here in 1151. Her son took the throne as Henry II.
Entering by the bottom door through the 11 foot thick walls we clambered upwards, not for the first time, into what was probably the storage area for the castle. Here, lit by 'candles' that were bought from the 'Merlin' series, we learned the use of the floor in the past and now. Recycling is good and the flooring came from I think she said Southend Pier when it was being renovated, and other items obtained in similar fashion. The family may be well off but this lass did not squander cash and impressed us all with her knowledge, wisdom and personality. Then, after having shown the interested parties the base where what arrived from medieval toilets was collected we headed for the stairs!
Oh joy!
The only way is up..and up...and up...
In the Banqueting Hall de Vere and his company wood eat at trestle tables possibly with table covers stuffing red deer and pheasants down their throat, with or without the wine grown on his estate. Rushes, and I suspect flower petals would be strewn across the floor making cleaning easier and treading on the petals released fragrance to cover the odour of the people! No fitted showers on show. Churches used the same trick, maybe they ought to try it again? Just asking. Several of our lot did investigate the historic loo tucked away round the corner but few were willing to try it out. I was with them!
Above us soared the biggest Norman arch in the country and on the Minstrels Gallery seen high above once strode Jesters, Minstrels and entertainers for the peoples stuffing it down below them. Imagine the noise of a full hall. The famous sitting at the top table, the lesser gentry further down. The envies, jelousies and political games played while they ate.
Not all these Earls had good luck. Robert the 9th Earl was disliked by jealous courtiers who had him exiled to Flanders, there he was killed by a wild boar in 1392, rather a pig of a day that. John, the 12th Earl, was loyal to Henry VI but when Edward IV took the throne suspicious people put both father and son in the tower. During 1461 they were beheaded. Being among the 'in crowd' does not always lead to success. John the 13th Earl suffered for his king enduring 12 years in prison. Eventually he returned to win victory for Henry VII at Bosworth Field and received every sort of honour. However in 1498 having entertained Henry the king suddenly realised how wealthy, and therefore how much of a threat he had become, the Earl was fined 15,000 marks to keep him in his place! Never show your wealth to the king.
Around the castle tastefully thought out items appear such as these helmets which I am guessing are Norman, or at least Norman fashion. I wonder what Elizabeth the first thought of it all when she visited in 1561? The Earl would have had to stump up for her entourage and the cost of the food requirements would have been frightening. The court travelled around the country ensuring they all knew who was in charge but the cost of provision would hinder many from equipping themselves with arms to rebel.
Whether these armaments ever saw action is unknown but they hang above the Hall reminding visitors on how Aubrey de Vere got possession of his home. Politics is no less noble now than it was then, which means no nobility among the nobles whatsoever in my view, as long as they kept in with the ruling monarch all was well.
Unfortunately in 1216 almost all Essex Lords turned on King John as they were taxed about his taxes! Especially as he required more than thought right and he kept losing wars, he was not a military man like his brother Richard. They, rebellious Essex men that they were turned, up at Runnymede and assisted him in signing the 'Magna Carta.' Robert de Vere, the 3rd Earl of Oxford was a leader among them. The Dauphin of France was asked to become King in John's place but John defeated the French garrison at Colchester causing that plan to fail. For reasons of his own (money I expect) the pope sided with John and John then set out to visit Hedingham and remove the man in charge. The siege lasted for some time and by using secret tunnels the besieged were able to obtain fresh fish which they threw at the attackers indicating they had plenty of stores. However this did not last and the struggle failed. John removed de Vere and took his lands as kings do. A year later the position was reversed when the Dauphin himself took the castle and fighting ended when John died and weak King Henry III gave back all de Vere's lands to him.
I did visit the castle some 20 years ago when young and fit and clambered right up onto the roof. This time huffing and puffing many of us were glad of the rope bannister alongside the wall as we trekked up and down the stairs. Quite why a defibrillator or oxygen masks were not available we were too puffed to ask.
One man asked where the lift was but got a rude reply.
The White Hart, as seen in the window, was the sign of Richard II, it looks good tucked away in one of the many corners but the Earl followed Richard I know not. The windows are small but not suitable for shooting arrows at passing King John's I would have thought. The narrow Minstrel Gallery you will notice brought joy to some of us as it indicated another flight of stairs. It is surprising how so many old people raced up and down these steps without accident or heart attack.
The decoration carved on the doors must have taken some time, remember there are five floors all in. The building took ten years to complete, one floor per year. It was not possible to work in winter as the lime used in mortar did not set in such conditions. The collection of the rubble, flints stone and what have you that they put in the walls must have taken some time. The facing stone itself came from Nottingham some distance away.
Others over the years have taken delight in carving their name or comment into the walls, windows and elsewhere. There was not time to seek out the oldest but these could go back quite far. At least as far as people who could write their names could go.
It struck many of us that the hall would have been very cold in winter, we had windows and heating, they had wall hangings and whatever to cover the icy gaps. The sheer size of the hall would have made heating difficult even if a banquet was under way and the place crowded.
Oh goody! More stairs!
At least there is a decent view all round. I cannot imagine trees would be so abundant that close to the Keep when there was a threat of enemy attack. Today the threat appeared to be pigeons nesting on the windows.
The make up of the walls comprised stone such as this with the Nottingham stone on the outside to present a decent face to the world. This was the original entrance with the square building operating as a prison. There was no door, prisoners were just dropped in from the top and a trapdoor shut on them.
Good luck to you in there.
It was amazing, while on the top floor now used as a museum, to see pictures of the great fire of 1918 which gutted the place. All the floors to the bottom were reduced to ashes, furniture and all else inside destroyed. The army, God bless them, had been on top of the roof making use of the height to signal to aircraft. The men had lit a fire and somehow this led to the entire roof catching fire which then engulfed the building. All the more amazing when we look at the work done today and see how well it has all been done up.
I thoroughly enjoyed the day even though my knees have yet to forgive me.
The castle is now used as a wedding venue, lucky them, and has many other events from time to time, jousting, archers and re-enactors and such like which one day I might look in on. The general mood was good and everybody enjoyed the house, gardens and castle. Of course this lot are history buffs and much knowledge was shared all through the day, in between lying on the ground seeking our breath, and I thought all went home happy.
Especially me as one of the attractive young ladies gave me a lift home, several fought over the privilege, thus saving me meeting humans on the bus back.
A jolly good day out, and I slept well last night...
Hedingham Castle, well worth a visit
even if you are not getting married!
