Near the Thames

The Church of St Magnus the Martyr was, like the rest, closed when I and many other tourists passed by.  This was rather unfortunate as with many tourists it could have brought in cas...been helpful for the church and in a position to speak of the history of the church and the role it had in London in times past.  For one thing outside the front door the roadway once led on to London Bridge as was and many a foot has trod this way before.  This was an important church in the past.  Today 'Adelaide House' another money machine this time for lawyers, engulfs the surroundings making it difficult for the church to breathe.

Not a great picture but with the church door to the left as you pass through you get some idea of times past and the throng that once used this path daily.  The first stone bridge was built in 1209 (that's A.D., not a.m. by the way) and the bridge existed on this alignment until 1831.  Arguments rage over who St Magnus was as several contenders could be the one.  It is best to let them argue and look at what lies around.

The Romans built the wharf here early on and Londinum sent a Bishop to the Council of Arles in 314 and some like to think this church existed then.  It certainly did in the 1100's and was rebuilt by Christopher Wren at a cost of nearly ten thousand pounds after it was destroyed during the Great Fire.  It was an important church partly because of the position and that possibly encouraged greater spending on a rebuild. Fishermen had their shops just to the south of the church along the riverside and as such the church became the Guild church of the 'Worshipful Company of Fishmongers.'  Billingsgate Fish Market used to stand right behind the back end of the church, today two tallish buildings fill the space.  Evidence for the Roman wharf was found in 1931 close to the church and this blackened portion of timber piling is now stationed outside the church door.  This dates from the year 75.

The River Thames still carries a lot of traffic however much of it now appears to be tourist boats staffed by chaps touting for tips it seems to me.  In 1966 when employed at my first job of work I scribbled out paperwork for lorries carrying a thousand cases of whisky to London Docks headed for various parts of the world.  At that time both sides of the river before Tower Bridge would be lined with tramp steamers while cheery cockney dockers pinched as much as they could from each consignment.  Working on the docks was a poor show, each man having to be called out from the crowd of jobseekers by the foreman every morning and work was not guaranteed.  Constant strikes, sometimes these were understandable, did not encourage sympathy for the East End men.  It was in 1966 I saw the first containers being put to use and it was interesting to note that all 1000 cases of whisky reached their destination unopened, something that did not always happen otherwise.  We used Southampton, Liverpool and Glasgow docks but the British Road Services drivers disliked London most of all which tells you something.  The opening of new docks with few workers at Felixstowe and elsewhere killed such docks and now they contain expensive flats and tourist sights.  The barges today may well have a variety of uses but I know that much of London's sewage gets carted away in similar barges to landfill sites further down towards Kent.  In the past many were used to unload ships that could not get docked at the Port.

What mean you 'That's boring?'  

In itself it contains much that is boring but it does represent all those steps that once were arrayed along the Thames enabling those using the River Taxi's to cross from one side to the other.  Those little rowing boats plied their trade for centuries until in the 19th century they decided to build more bridges.  Much trouble ensued as the 'Taxi' drivers lost their income and folks walked across for nothing, there again who has ever met a happy taxi driver?  The river was crisscrossed by such taxi's while sail and steam boats and many other craft made their way up and down stream.  It is no surprise that on occasion there were accidents especially in the recurrent smog.

In the far distance squashed in amongst other buildings stands the Tower of London.  This was begun not long after William the Conquerer took over and the Keep, the 'White Tower' in the middle went up in 1078.  Since then the fortification has seen several changes but basically the tower itself stands as Willie built it.  Once it towered over London in similar fashion to his Barons wooden, then stone, castles towered over the rest of the population.  The resentment felt by the locals was palatable, especially in London a place which has never been keen on outsiders telling it what to do.  Willie and his men had a  good way of dealing with rebels, they slaughtered them, that kept them in the their place somewhat. Today the Tower appears a little squashed but no vast skyscrapers are built too close I notice. 

Had I the energy I would have wandered around to see the ancient ship stuck away permanently in the far dock.  I did see it up close about 25 years ago but I suspect the area around is now full of the cafes' and eateries that abound in tourist traps.  That tourist boat looks gey full to me, I suspect it is a tourist boat but could be a special party.  Later I learned some of those folks who row kayaks around the UK or the world were returning home and some boats were heading out to welcome them.  Row around the UK?  Are they daft?

This rather gentle Art Deco style office block is Adelaide House, the building that engulfs St Magnus. The building was one of the first to be steel framed and covered with very expensive Portland Stone and when erected became the highest office block in the City of London.   The name comes from King William the IVs wife Adelaide, this because she opened the new London Bridge in 1831.  She didn't see this building however it arrived in 1925.

On the front stands this lass holding a globe for reasons not stated.  She stands on a coat of arms from an Australian state, several line the front for reasons unknown.  If you wish to know why ask one William Reid Dick who chiselled her out and he will explain, although he may be dead by now.

What's that doing here?

Nothing.  However after wandering around London the heart cries out for greenery and plant life.

 

Neck Straining

The neck straining began yesterday outside the station at the Great Eastern Hotel as was.  London as folks know is a place where allowing the sky and sun to be seen is considered dangerous so narrow streets and high buildings are required.  Victorians did indeed build some attractive creations and can still be found everywhere the skyscraper builders have not yet trespassed although some are a wee bit over the top for us today.  Maintaining them must cost a bomb also, however that is probably not a phrase allowed in central London these days.  This slab of a hotel does look good even if the street itself is a mess.

Sauntering down towards the river while London rushed past uncaring I managed to get two monstrosities for the price of one.  There are as you know plans for a hundred towers more in the offing, another of Boris Johnson's plans to enrich himself and his friends showing success.  Of the two shown the far away one is the most absurd, pointless in design, absurd in looks and built simply to launder cash, I forget who was behind it but I am sure 'Private Eye' will know.  The one in front is known as the 'Walkie Talkie' although those who's cars were burnt and melted by the sun reflecting of the windows may have used other terms.  The 'Shard,' for it is indeed he, in the distance is supposed to reflect on the many church spires of times past or a possibly broken glass.  I think it reflects on the money grabbing con men who made money out of it.

The Lloyds Building which opened in 1986 remains the first of the absurd buildings that desecrate London.  However according to Wiki 'The building is a leading example of radical Bowellism architecture in which the services for the building, such as ducts and lifts are located on the exterior to maximise space in the interior.'  To me it looks daft.  Naturally this is the youngest building to ever achieve Grade 1 listed status and the architect himself became world famous and was as such allowed to build more daft buildings for rich folks with no taste elsewhere.  I prefer this false Greek frontage on the old building even though nobody realised the frieze ought to have been brightly painted as in Athens in times past.  You can see the sewage pipes of the new building behind if you really wish to.

Opposite Lloyds stands St Andrew Undershaft.  This church was recorded as far back as 1147 and has stood in its present form since 1532.  While the inside has been renovated constantly the building itself has withstood both the Fire of London and the Blitz without problems.  Now however it is surrounded by the towering absurdities on all sides.  Just imagine for a moment the individual people who have stepped through that door over a thousand years!  Consider their lifestyles, their position in society and the world around them as time flew by.  I can easily imaginen their thoughts on seeing this lot today.  The 'Gherkin' or 'Cheesegrater' behind may have had other names offered it since it was erected, I think my opinion may be guessed at.

The Great Fire of London in1666 began in a bakers shop, the Blitz had other causes, and this monument was subtly created to commemorate the fire.  I suppose at one time it stood out above the crowd.  Now it peers through the gaps in the buildings although it is itself lying lower down towards the river.  Christopher Wren, who with Robert Hook (who done most of the work) created the Monument, put forward plans to create a London featuring wide streets and easier access plus less chance of fire damage but this fell apart as those who owned parcels of land wished to keep their hold on their spot.  This is a shame as the new London would have been easier to pass through today had he got his way.  However all those narrow alleys piled high with money grabbing uncaring Londoners going from wine bar to pub would not be an attractive romantic draw for the tourists.

Helpfully the monument describes how the fire started and other relevant details.  I know you will take delight in learning the details.

Ugh!

Were the blueprints creased when they made that one?  In the background stands another of Richard Rogers mistakes.  His wife apparently called this one also 'Cheesegrater' and Rogers at least had sufficient faith in the thing to move his company offices into it.  I say that serves him right! 

Bring back the Luftwaffe to finish the job I say!

The Mayor of London had a cycle event on yesterday and a million bikes of all sorts went round and round each and every one determined to be where I was crossing the road.  There were myriad stewards placed here and there carrying poles saying 'STOP' and by these controlling the traffic flow.  I spoke to this chap as I passed encouraging him that he only had eight more hours of this ahead of him.  He laughed and considered meaningfully walloping me with the pole so I moved on.  The stewards were excellent folks, mind you some found English difficult, the locals like this chap were helpful and competent in there duties.  The whole atmosphere was a happy friendly one, so unlike the London I knew.

Peoples of all ages, sizes and from many parts of London and around appeared willing to cycle around in circles on these normally 'death trap' roads.  Cyclists are often treated badly by car drivers however when I used to cycle there (being younger) I managed by avoiding heavy traffic and using my head.  This is not always the case and cycle messengers get the reputation they deserve.  The heavy traffic full of lorry drivers who cannot possibly people up close and miss bikes that cycle right up under them, plus careless drivers and careless cyclists do not make for comfortable riding.  The young girl killed the other day appeared to be in a position where the driver could not possibly see her and sometimes I wonder about cyclists in town.  Common sense tells you to let big vehicles go first and stay clear of them.  No problems yesterday as far as I could see and this was a well organised day and all appeared to enjoy.  However I hear one or two accidents occurred in the 'Ride London' race which takes folks round London and out into the far suburbs today.

 There were the tallest folks riding around and looking happy about it.

And this was the smallest!  Whether he made it all the way round I know not but what a bike to have on a day like this?  Surrounded by cycling family members he appeared happy enough if a little confused.

Looking up again at the Guildhall tower.  The limp English imperialist flag hanging unhappily has been worn out by the noise from down below.  This is where the cyclists were controlled from, stalls abounded, music blared, food smells rose along with the smoke of burning lunch and bikes were placed under the feet of innocent passersby as they forced their way through.  Too much for little me.

Here too stewards abounded but it was difficult to identify the stewards from the riders wearing Hi-Vis vests.  Were they all stewards or just using a vest to advertise 'Prudential' who were sponsoring the day?  I know not.  The newer guildhall buildings are seen behind and the place may have been open to visitors but I declined the opportunity if they were and looked for greener grass elsewhere.

At Bank this choir based themselves in the middle of the road and swung away throughout the day.  They appeared happy enough as did the audience.  However why female riders park their bikes so that I fall over them as I try to get away was a question that was not answered!  Bah!  

Viewpoint

I took this picture about 25 years ago.  I was standing on 'Suicide Bridge' at Archway.  The hills to the north of London give a wonderful view of the city, if it wasn't for the 'ouses in between.'  From here you can see the Barbican complex, originally built as council houses, now sold at huge price to the rich.  Many MP's reside there.  What was known as the 'Nat West Tower,' until the IRA blew up the street below causing the National Westminster bank to move elsewhere, towers above everything else.  The view must have been excellent but not when a thunderstorm raged.  

I wonder what the view is like today?  Huge ugly erections have arisen since I took that grainy picture.  Buildings climb into the sky, the creators 'making a name for themselves in the world.'  To my mind, tired of the emptiness that claims to be success, I find them unappealing.  The 'Shard' just looks ridiculous, as does the one called the 'Gherkin!'  More to do with an abundance of money and a desire to use it to do something different rather than fulfill a function artistically.  

'Suicide Bridge,' built in 1900, carries Hornsey Lane high above the 'Archway Road.'  The bridge was enhanced by a row of iron spikes in an attempt to stop people flinging themselves therefrom.  Sadly such measures failed to stop three men clambering over the bridge to their deaths in three short weeks in 2010.

Wiki

John Nash's original bridge shows the height above the road.  An excellent view from above, but a long way down for some.  The horses no longer struggle up the slope, instead expensive tin cans carry millions of canned people at high speed up the A1, the Great North Road.  That is the road the Londoners of yore took when running to Scotland for some fresh air.  Not far from here is found the hill where Dick Whittington and his cat turned around and went back to London, so he says, but as he was a politician I have my doubts.

Can I add that suicide is not a good idea.  No doubt we have all considered it at some time, even as a remote thought, but not only does it hurt others, especially if you fall on them, it fails to answer our problems.  It must be very difficult to convince someone that desperate or mentally unwell that Jesus gave us bright blue skies, green grass and sunshine to indicate life does have a meaning beyond out problems.  However it does!  One lass at the hospital killed herself one night, she had been crying for months, and nothing could be done.  I stopped her cutting her hand on one of the small windows she broke but during the night she ended it all.  Life may not be fun, but suicide does not improve it.

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Old Pump

The Aldgate Pump, pictured here in 1880 surrounded by local worthies, still stands on this spot!  The pump marks the official beginning of the 'East End.'  It is found at the junction of Aldgate and Fenchurch/Leadenhall Streets.  There is a report of a pump around here in the days of King John back in the twelve hundreds, streams were near by so it is likely, and this pump, dating from the late eighteenth century, was itself was re-erected on this spot in 1876 when London's growth led to the streets being widened.  Pollution of the water occurred around this time when calcium leaked from the bones of the dead buried in new cemeteries to the north of the City and filtered into the stream which fed the pump. It is said several hundred people died because of this.  However some years later Whittards, the tea people, claimed to always have kettles filled here so they could use the 'purest water.'  It is important to know your local History!  Mains water replaced the stream when the pollution was discovered. The spout is a small brass wolf's head seen on the front of the Portland stone pump, this represents the last wolf shot in London.  This replaced the stone spout sometime before the Great War.  I think there are still wolves in the City of London myself. There appears to be some dispute as to when the water was turned off as the pump is no longer in use.

Situated in the City of London, surrounded still by heavy traffic, the pump is ignored by the masses who pass by each day, London after all has vast numbers of historical artifacts in every direction. Few if any would know the story of the pump, many might not know who King John was, although they might listen if someone claims to have found his lost treasure, and I doubt many temporary locals care as they pass by these days.  We live within our lives and immediate troubles don't we.  At one time the real locals, who actually lived here unlike the million or so employed in the area today, depended on this pump.  Like so many others throughout the nation a pump was the only water supply.  Any fouling of the water therefore caused great suffering to many, and usually this meant the poorest and least able to help themselves.  Many village pumps remain in this area, some well maintained and on public view, others found lurking in peoples gardens.  Our purified water today comes through the tap, however fussy folks can buy a variety of bottled waters, I never see a jogger without the magic bottle for instance, it is almost a fashion item with some, and working pumps or water fountains are rarely seen today.    

  

Historic UK

Spitalfields Life

Wiki

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