This is a strange book. At one time sloppy, and at another quite interesting. Overall I am still not sure about it or what he got from his journey. I read his book 'The places in between,' concerning his walk across Afghanistan, and I liked it. This one, split into three parts, is different.
The book begins with Rory talking about his father. When I first opened it I found it rather too much, the relationship at home was one I thought ought to remain at home. As his father was 50 when he was born it meant he was well into his 30s and refers throughout the book to his 'daddy.' Had my father lived that long, and I called him 'daddy' at that age he may well have been wondering about me. He also never called me 'darling,' a term used for the females in the family. It would have sounded odd when used of a son. Now I know other people use such terms in this way, but it left me feeling somewhat queasy. So, I dumped the book for some time until I was forced to see if it was as bad as I feared.
The early part takes us on a walk along Hadrian's Wall, or what is left of it, time and the archaeologists have had their way upon it. Father being in his 80s he tends to drive on to a meeting place where the two will join together to discuss what has been found. Rory walks along the wall discussing the present state of its being, adding as much history as he can discover. He then relates this to his own army experience and as a government employee in south Iraq, along with his fathers army and government work in Malaya and Hong Kong.
Then we realise that neither were true Scots. The father was born and bred in Scotland but once the war came his army experiences and later British government work 'for the Empire,' left a deep mark upon him. Both have spent time working for 'The Queen,' both spent time abroad, rather that in Scotland, neither have much experience of 'the man in the street,'(a phrase banned by some) or daily life for most Scots. This leaves the fathers' insistence on playing the Scot at all times leaving questions. He only offers visitors Scots food and whisky, made a big thing of Scots highland dancing, (Something demanded by the Black Watch when an officer), and wore the kilt or Scots apparel but really did not know who or what he was to his dying days in his 90s. Something I reckon many Scots serving the Empire also felt. Rory himself, living in Cumbria and for a time their member for parliament, shares similar lack of awareness of who and what he is. This is a growing undercurrent throughout this book.
Rory walks along the wall, then in the second part wanders across what he calls the Middleland, the space between the wall and the Scottish border. He talks to one and all, attempting to understand if they are Scot or English, and do they understand their history. It seems to me the incomers to the area, and it is a somewhat bleak area, understand the history better than the locals, though the locals, few and far between, always appear disinterested, possibly because of Rory?
The third walk takes Rory from the borders up to Crieff where his fathers home lay.
Along all the journey we have interesting historical details, comparing the present to the past, the changes to the land caused by agriculture or Monks, by military or weather, farmers or governments. We learn that borders people in Scotland speak Scots, but apparently do not recognise the border as we do. Those in England remain English. Those living on the borders, where families spread across two sides, are often confused as to what they are.
I think Rory is trying to work out if he is British or Scots, and finding no answer. Living in Cumbria, where they are English, even though the border is just up the road, emphasises that he is English. I think this is the problem for many of the 'Edinburgh and border' types who vote Conservative. They wish to be Scots but have been educated as English, and their money is over the border.
All the while Rory continues to write and phone his 'daddy,' and discuss his findings. He is keen to understand his fathers opinions, though these reflect those of an active man who worked for the Secret Service, often in dangerous places on behalf of 'the queen.' His experience, compared to Roman soldiers on the Wall, his understanding of his son and shared experiences, are interesting, though at times I again consider much of what was written ought to have remained within the family. It is notable that his mother is rarely mentioned.
I read through the book, and would recommend it anyone interested in the borders and walking in the rain. Rory writes well and many good facts and questions to ponder come from the walk. It's worth a read.
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